For those who are brave enough, you can fit your own headlining in your Type 2.

I plan on having a go at this although I suspect it will look like Nora Batty’s stockings, but here’s the video on how to do it:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_T4EsrgT73I

Problems with rough running on your Type 1 engine in your Type 2?

Running standard Solex 34 carburettor?

Maybe this guide to replacing the bushes will help you to resolve that niggling running issue

TRANSPORTER FUEL PROBLEMS by Robert GirtHOME AND AWAY.
Reports in Transporter Talk Issue 148 of Club
Members having blocked fuel lines chimed
with us as our 1970 Bay has recently suffered
similarly and others may wish to benefit from
our experience.
The MOT was due 2 weeks before our ferry was
booked for a 3 week holiday in France. I cast
my eye over everything and found nothing
wanting so went off to my friendly testing
station with confidence. However, mindful of
repeated warnings in Transporter Talk of the
fire risk from perished fuel lines I asked Roy, the
tester, what his opinion was of my fuel hoses.
All seemed fine, but with the engine running
Roy uncovered a small leak between the pump
and the carb. It hadn’t been evident to me or
Roy when the engine was still and there had
been no smell of petrol. I was grateful for
Roy’s experience. He replaced all the rubber
pipes and the in-line filter (£90!); the MOT was
secured and we were set fair for our holiday.
Off we sped (?- well 55mph!) down the A1M,
but approaching Peterborough we ran into
a congestion standstill and discovered that
tickover had disappeared. Crawling in thick
traffic was a real pain, constantly having to
juggle the clutch and the accelerator, but
otherwise we could make good progress and
we reached our overnight Dover campsite OK.
I took out the slow running jet; that looked
clear, but I baulked at taking the carb off, with
diminishing daylight and without the resources
of my garage at home. We considered
soldiering on to France but the prospect of
trying to access the ferry without slow running
decided me to seek professional help. If I
tackled the carb myself we were going to miss
our early morning ferry booking anyway.
We phoned our predicament to DFDS
Ferries and did a quick internet search on
the smartphone which lead us, with Satnav
guidance, to a likely garage in Dover. They
could tackle the problem, but only in 3 day’s
time and directed us to another garage.
They immediately redirected us to Cowens
Motors (Unit 11, Holmestone Road, Coombe
Valley Industrial Estate, CT17 0UF Tel 01304
207743) where we received a warm and
friendly welcome from Ian, the proprietor. He
was enthusiastic about tackling our problem,
having cut his teeth on Beetles and early
Transporters, but he already had a Bay for that
day’s work. We killed a day visiting the White
Cliffs, very interesting and were back early next
morning at Ian’s garage. 2 hours (and £90 later)
we were sorted, carb cleaned out and engine
retuned; it had never run so sweetly in the 41
years we have owned it! Definitely recommend
Ian! Off we raced to get the next available
ferry, an extra £50! and the holiday was really
under way.
All went well for the next 1000 miles: the van
ran like a Swiss watch! However, leaving Albi
and following a slow lorry up a hill with a tail
of impatient French cars behind us, the engine
suddenly cut out and we kangarooed to a halt.
Initially we had tickover, but nothing more
unless I pumped the accelerator jet. Then
tickover disappeared too. We limped in to a
lay-by and thankfully the shade of a tree and
rang the rescue service. Although they were
initially somewhat slow to understand our
predicament, they eventually cottoned on and
2 hours later a friendly French mechanic in a
rescue truck hauled us off to the yard at Garage
Pradelles Roland in Lisle sur Tarn. Language was
a bit of a problem as our schoolboy French was
not quite their Occitaine dialect. They called
in a neighbouring Madame who spoke some
English and we got talking. Again they were
too busy to start our job until the next day
and it was late afternoon by now. We rang to
advise the rescue service and they went away
to organise a hotel and taxi for us , although
the garage kindly said we could camp in their
yard and have a key so we could use their
toilets overnight. Communication with the
rescue service became problematic due to
our not having registered our trip for voicemail
purposes, but before our accommodation
needs could be sorted one of the mechanics
strolled out of the garage and indicated I
should start the engine while he diddled
the carb. He raced and raced the engine and
eventually, after much dying and starting, it ran
on its own, though still not on tickover. He then
started fiddling with the points, took them out
to reface them and put them back, but to no
avail. Finally, he thought of the slow running
jet, removed it, declared it “merdoise” (a rude
French word we did understand!), dragged an
airline from the garage, blasted out the jet and
its socket, and “Sacre Bleu”all was well again! He
then took us for a hair-raising trial run where
the Transporter French Land Speed Record
was broken before handing the keys back in
to my trembling hands, and relieving me of
E89 (say £82). Worth every penny just for the
experience!
So we were able to move on and camp nearby
that night, much to my wife’s disappointment
at missing a night in a posh hotel! And much
to our dismay as that night a frightening
thunderstorm in the early hours brought down
large bits of shading trees all over the campsite,
enough to make a small dent in our roof!
After that, what else could go wrong? Thankfully
nothing did and we were able to enjoy the rest
of the holiday on the Loire and Somme, but
with some apprehension the carb would block
again: but it hasn’t in a further 1,000 miles. So
what lessons to draw?
1. Check your pipes with the engine running.
2. Make sure the new pipes are clean inside
before fitting them.
3. Consider cleaning the carb when you fit
new pipes.
4. Sort your voicemail before you venture
abroad, BUT don’t be afraid of going: your
problems will get sorted and you will meet
some really nice people.
Well, we’re already planning next year’s trip.
Robert Girt.
Hi Robert, The Mechanic truly enjoyed reading
your tales of trips abroad. I hope our members
enjoy it also. There are some good points made
at the end that are definitely worth taking
note of.
Now we call upon some help from some
of the conversion experts out there!

This issue, The Mechanic takes a look at
an often overlooked but important issue,
windscreen wiper condition.
As the weather starts to turn wet during the
autumn and winter, there is one very important
and often overlooked safety feature that needs
your attention, the windscreen wipers!
Windscreen wipers are an invaluable part of
any vehicle, providing the driver with a clear,
unobstructed view of the road when it is
needed most. Whether it is rain, sleet, snow
or leaves covering your windscreen, the wiper
blades will quickly and efficiently clear the
obstruction, meaning you can continue your
journey in safety.
However, of all the parts of a car which are
subject to wear and tear, windscreen wipers
are perhaps the most fragile. Manufactured
from thin rubber, they are designed to
operate smoothly on the windscreen without
damaging the surface of the glass, yet despite
their fragility they are often required on a daily
basis, possibly for long periods of time during
wet weather. In winter they become frozen to
the glass and in summer they are used to help
to clean the windscreen, while being subjected
to high temperatures. It is hardly surprising
then, that windscreen wipers do not last
indefinitely and require regular replacement.

Often the need to replace wipers is overlooked,
although regular servicing and MOT testing
should identify if they are becoming worn.
However, rather than relying on these tests to
assess the condition of the blades, car owners
should be aware of the common signs that the
windscreen wipers are failing, especially with
autumn upon us. So what are they?
Streaking: blades that are in good condition
should clear the rainwater from the windscreen
effortlessly, in one complete action. This means
there should be no streaks of water where the
blade has failed to make contact with the glass.
Unusual noises: windscreen wipers should
operate with minimal noise or ideally should
be silent. Sounds such as squeaks, screeches
or scrapes could indicate that the blades have
become worn.
Irregular movement: wiper blades which
are in good condition will move smoothly
across the windscreen. As they become worn
over time, you may notice that the blades
judder on operation which is an indication that
replacement may be necessary.
Ragged or distorted blades: visually
inspecting the condition of the windscreen
wipers should be a weekly task for all vehicle
owners. By lifting the arms of the wipers away
from the windscreen, you can quickly assess
the condition of the rubber. Ragged, jagged
or distorted edges, where the blade makes
contact with the glass, should prompt you to
replace them immediately.
Worn blades may not only hinder your vision,
but can also damage your windscreen, which
will in turn not only cost you dearly in a
replacement screen, but also hinder your vision
even more, making it dangerous to drive with
the vehicle in such a condition.
Replacement blades can be picked up very
cheaply for all types of van, so there is no excuse
not to check yours and change if required, but
remember… “Buy Nice or Buy Twice”.

Gill bought the bus in 2015, after a holiday
with a friend where they rented a VW T2. It was
a modern Brazilian model, but they were both
bitten by the bug and it was a camper that she
had admired for many years from afar.
After months searching the internet and
auction sites, she spotted this old light blue
van on vwcampercrazy, liked the fact that it
was pretty original and had a look about it that
gave a lasting impression on her. Gill was living
in London, so had arranged to see a couple of
vans that seemed OK. Meanwhile, she noticed
that Claude was listed on eBay. She certainly
didn’t want to do an online bid for a bus she
hadn’t seen and had bought a book on what
to look for when buying an old van, which
was invaluable. Gill noticed that Claude hadn’t
sold for his reserve on eBay, so contacted the
owner and asked if she could view it.
Claude is a 1968 Westfalia (with a SO62 interior)
Kombi. A LHD, he remained in Germany for
most of his life, before being imported by the
previous owner around 12 years ago. He has
had no modifications and so is as far as Gill can
tell, completely stock. That is part of the charm
that attracted her to him. The only change
from standard is that he was repainted in
Guinea Blau to replace the original Savannah
Beige. “It isn’t a complete paint job and the bus
is still beige inside, but it’s a nice and bright
shade of blue, although not totally original to
the period, it makes him look quite chirpy” Gill
told us.
With the SO62 comes the turret top which, are
more often seen on late Westfalia Splits. This
was an one year only design from the transition
from the Split to the Bay. Unfortunately the
kitchen elements had been stored in a garden
shed for many years and had rotted, but there
were some salvageable items such as the
Rock’n’Roll bed and Formica swivel table. The
back ‘head banger’ overhead locker was huge
and not ideal, as it blocked out the rear view of
the van, especially being LHD. The front bench
seat configuration was in good condition but
the upholstery was very tired as was most of
the trim.
Gill bought the bus as a solid example, but
planned to upgrade his interior to something
more contemporary and comfortable for
camping. Gill set about this by firstly stripping
out the inside as much as possible before
taking him to the Camper Shak, where they
helped her come up with a custom design
that kept the dark Westy style wood, in a layout
that nods to the old SO62, but with everything Gill needed.

Gill also had white headlining put
in with cool blue mood lighting and then had
all the interior panels trimmed to match the
freshly upholstered front seats.

Gill bought some material and had VW Camper
Curtains make them into curtains to add to
the custom interior look and as a last finishing
touch, installed some Mad Matz flooring and
cab mats which really finish him off.

Gill enjoys that Claude is mostly standard and
plans to keep him as original as she can, with
the straight forward engineering that seems to
always work.
As for the rest of Claude, he is maintained as
is with a standard 1600 single port engine. Gill
says she finds him pretty slow, but finds it quite
liberating to find the roads off the beaten track
to avoid any fast traffic, for Gill, her travels are
all about enjoying the journey in a vintage bus
and not having to rush anywhere.
Some of her adventures include a trip to her
first festival at Big Bang and some coastal trips
to Ireland and Isle of Wight. Gill always looks
forward to the summer so that her journey
with Claude can continue.
Don’t forget, if you want your pride and joy
exhibited on the front cover of the Club
magazine and a feature inside; send us some
information about your van, memories and
pictures. Your van could be on the cover of the
next issue!

Don’t forget that we are a club for all types of
VW Transporter Van/Bus and would love to see
some Splits, T25’s, T4’s, T5’s and even T6’s too, it
isn’t just about the T2 Bay!.

For those who still require an MOT on their
vehicle, the current information from the DFT
regarding MOT requirements are:
1. About the MOT
The MOT tests some important items on your
vehicle to check that they meet the legal
standards.
It isn’t the same as having your vehicle serviced
and doesn’t check its general mechanical
condition.
The test doesn’t cover the condition of the:
• engine
• clutch
• gearbox
2. Parts tested in the MOT
These are some of the important parts of your
car that will be checked in the MOT.

Body, vehicle structure and
general items
These will be inspected to check that:
• they’re free from excessive corrosion
or damage in specific areas
• there are no sharp edges likely to
cause injury
2.2 Towbars
Towbars will be inspected for:
• secureness
• condition
• inappropriate repairs or modification
The MOT tester will also check that:
• the 13 pin electrical socket is working
correctly
• the speedometer is in good working
order
• the engine mountings are secure
2.3 Fuel system
The fuel system will be inspected to check
that:
• there are no leaks
• the pipes and hoses are secure and in a
good condition
• the fuel cap fastens and seals securely
You should make sure that the key is available
as the fuel cap will need to be opened.
2.4 Exhaust emissions
The vehicle will be inspected, depending on
the age and fuel type of the vehicle, to check
that it meets the rules for exhaust emissions.
Diesel vehicles
The MOT tester will refuse to test your vehicle
if they think that the smoke test may damage
your engine.
You should tell them at the start of the MOT
if you think this may happen.

To reduce the possibility of damage and
increase the chances of passing, you should:
• keep your vehicle maintained at all times
• have the camshaft drive belt replaced at
the recommended intervals
• go for the MOT with a fully warmed up
engine – it will produce less smoke and is
safer to test
• not tamper with the governor settings
2.5 Exhaust system
The exhaust system will be inspected to
check that:
• it’s secure and complete
• a catalyst isn’t missing where one was
fitted as standard
• it’s without serious leaks and not too noisy
2.6 Seatbelts
The vehicle will be inspected to check that:
• the mandatory seatbelts are in place
• they are suitable for the vehicle
• they are in a good condition
• they work properly
• they are attached securely
The malfunction indicator lamps (MILs) or
dashboard warning lights will be checked
for the:
• air bags
• seatbelt pretensioners (which remove
the slack from a seatbelt in the event of a
collision)
• seatbelt load limiters (which release a
small amount of belt when it’s too tight)
2.7 Seats
These will be inspected to check that:
• the driver’s seat can be adjusted
• all seats are securely fitted and that seat
backs can be fixed in the upright position
2.8 Doors
These will be inspected to check that:
• the latch is secure in the closed position
• the front doors open from inside and
outside the vehicle
• the rear doors open from outside the
vehicle
• hinges and catches are secure and in a
good condition
2.9 Mirrors
The vehicle will be inspected to check for the
minimum number of mirrors, their condition
and security. Indirect vision devices will also
inspected.
2.10 Load security
The vehicle will be inspected to check that the
boot or tailgate can be closed properly.
2.11 Brakes
These will be inspected to check:
• their condition, including inappropriate
repairs or modifications
• their operation and performance (the
efficiency test) – the wheels and trims
aren’t removed as part of the test
• the anti-lock braking system (ABS) and
electronic stability control (ESC) (where
fitted)
The MILs or dashboard warning lights will also
be checked for the ABS, ESC, electronic park
brake and brake fluid warning lights.
2.12 Tyres and wheels
These will be inspected to check for:
• condition
• security
• tyre size and type
• tread depth

wheels and tyres are not inspected.
Vehicles first used on or after 1 January 2012
will be checked to make sure the tyre pressure
monitoring system (TPMS) MIL is working.
2.13 Registration plates
These will be inspected to check for:
• condition
• secure attachment
• colour
• characters correctly formed and spaced
2.14 Lights
These will be inspected to check:
• their condition
• operation, including high intensity
discharge (HID) and light emitting
diode (LED)
• the headlamps for cleaning, self
levelling and security
• headlamp aim
• main beam warning light working
2.15 Bonnet
This will be inspected to check that it closes
securely.
2.16 Wipers and washers
These will be inspected to check that they work
properly so the driver has a clear view of the
road.
2.17 Windscreen
The windscreen will be inspected to
check for:
• condition
• the driver’s view of the road
2.18 Horn
This will be inspected to check:
• that it works properly
• it’s suitable for the vehicle
2.19 Steering and suspension
These will be inspected to check:
• their condition
• steering oil level
• they work correctly
• for inappropriate repairs or modification
including corrosion to power steering
pipes or hoses
• that the steering lock mechanism works
properly
The MILs or dashboard warning lights will also
be checked for the electronic power steering
and steering lock.
2.20 Vehicle identification
number (VIN)
The VIN will be on vehicles first used on or after
1 August 1980. Your car will be inspected to
check that a single VIN is displayed, except on
multistage build vehicles (eg van conversion,
BMW, Alpina etc).
2.21 Electrical
Visible electrical wiring and the battery will be
checked.

It started with our first camping venture to
Bugs at the Castle a few summers ago. This
was our first taste of the VW life and since
then we have been hooked. My other half has
spent ten years in New Zealand and loves the
outdoor life and the whole association with
VW’s, camping and living the life in the sun.
Whilst she was away abroad with the girls I
saw a camper for sale in Wakefield. I decided
to hire a trailer from a local body shop in Wales
and make the trek to take a look. I collected my
brother in law on the way through Birmingham
on route to the viewing.
On the return leg we had a blow out on the
trailer and ended up arriving home on the
back of an AA truck at midnight. (Editor PA –
Sounds like the perfect start to VW ownership!)
Once it was safely home, work began! There
were four years of hard work to carry out a
complete nut and bolt restoration and now
she is finished, awaiting some trips to shows and events. My nine year old nephew got
involved in the restoration and he helped me
to strip the van down and even put the roof
rack together himself. (Editor PA – Which is a
thing of beauty!)
We obtained the van’s birth certificate from the
Auto Museum in Germany and it shows that
the Engine and Gearbox fitted in the van are
both original items! Although original numbers,
the engine and gearbox have also had rebuilds.
The engine has had a complete top and
bottom end rebuild to factory standard and the
gearbox with differentials have been restored
by Bears Motorsport in Birmingham.
The interior is composed of Ostrich double
stitched hide, complimented with striped
upholstery.
The vehicle has a NOV certificate, rolling road
tuning certificate, full MOT and has been
plated for use in the UK.
We think that the quality of work and detail on
this van is fantastic and hope that it gets some
use during 2018, maybe we will get a chance
to see it at a VWT2OC event.

Let’s start with a “how to” guide and hopefully your questions will be answered. That way we can assist any other members also wishing to complete this task. In the cab of your VW there will be three levers; one blue and two red. The blue lever controls the cold air intake, on and off, the left hand red lever controls the distribution of hot air between the foot well and the windscreen and the right hand red lever controls the amount of hot air entering the cab, location defined by the left hand red lever. It is the right hand red lever that you are describing which connects to two cables which travel the length of the van to the heat exchangers at the engine. These cables are readily available from VW parts suppliers and are relatively easy to replace, although you are experiencing the dreaded rusted conduit tube! Before work commences, it is advisable to jack the front of the van as high as possible (that you can leave for a day or so) and spray penetrating oil down the conduit tubes and leave as long as possible to allow it work. This should make removing the cables (both inner and outer sheath) a much easier task. To gain better access to the cables, and cab area, it is advisable to remove the steering wheel and is done so using a 24mm socket or spanner. To gain access to the nut, use a small flat bladed screwdriver and prise up the black plastic cover, not the aluminium ring around the cover. When removing the steering wheel, loosen the nut but do not remove it yet, give the steering wheel a few tugs to remove the wheel from the column, doing this with the nut loosely fitted will stop you smashing yourself in the face with the wheel when it gives way, (TRUST ME!)

If you can avoid removing the part of the dash where the coloured control levers are located,
I would. You should be able to reach under and disconnect the cables from levers in situ. They are retained by two clips and the cables loop over each other with a spring clip. Note how it fits before removing (take a picture). Follow the cables down 150mm and you will find the cable outer sheath is retained by a spring clip. Moving underneath the van, disconnect the cables from the heat exchanger flaps (8mm spanner) and pull the cables clear of the flaps. The nuts are prone to corrosion due the heat and exposed location, so it is worth soaking in penetrating oil (get a cuppa and come back) before removing to avoid damaging the flap on the exchanger.

Staying under the van, head to the front and find where the cables enter the conduit. Now pull the inner and outer parts of the cables back through the conduit, this is where you may have trouble if they are seized, but hopefully the penetrating oil has done its job. Many people have trouble at this stage, but do find that brute force and ignorance does get the job done eventually. Make a note of which cable comes from which side as they are different in length, you don’t want to come up short at the end of the job! At this stage, if you cannot remove the cables from the conduits at all, you could leave the cables in place, trim them back and fit an alternative conduit directly next to the adjacent one. Not ideal, but a potential fix. This could be done using some kind of plastic water pipe and cable ties, but I have never attempted it. With the cables removed from the conduit it is time to refit your new cables into the existing or replacement conduit. The passenger side cable has a metal rod bent at 90° on the end and the driver side cable has a loop made from the cable itself. Prior to fitting the cables, it is advisable to grease the inner cables as best you can and also grease the outer sheath part of the cables to prevent them from seizing within the conduit, should you need to replace in the future.

From under the van, push each cable through the conduit until it reaches the heat exchanger. The opposite end is then passed into the cab area through the grommet in the floor and reconnected to the heater control levers. The retaining clips on the levers are very tricky to hold in position whist you tighten the screws, but keep persevering and you will get there.
If you have it, another set of hands to assist
you may help at this point 9and probably another cuppa!) Now that you are done in the cab, move the RH heater lever to the down position and return back to the rear of the van. Connect the cables to the heat exchanger mechanism, making sure that you replace any grommets from the end of the conduit. Move the flaps to the maximum open position against the spring pressure and thread the cable through the retaining nut. Complete for both sides. Now check that when the heater lever is moved up, that the heat exchanger flaps close. An assistant is handy here too to save keep getting up and into the cab and back down on the floor again! If all is working well, the job is complete and you can refit the steering wheel and any underneath panelling removed for access. Now drive and enjoy your heating in the
colder months and ability to turn it off in the warmer ones!

The temperatures have been below freezing lately; not the ideal camping environment! As spring approaches, the campervans start to come out of hibernation, the the temperatures can still get low at night and that means heating. There are gas heaters on the market and these are becoming more affordable. Gas is also used for cooking in many campervans, so it’s time to talk gas safety! Types of Gas Let’s start by looking at the different types of gas available in the UK and beyond. All European countries have their own gas bottle suppliers and each of these have their own regulators and adaptors. Campingaz is available all through Europe in small bottles which is great for quick trips or for solo travellers. We (Editors) use campingaz 907 bottles as they’re fairly readily available in the UK and abroad and they fit nicely in the cupboard under our storage trunk! LPG (or Liquid Petroleum Gas) is the most common kind used in campervans and motor homes and it comes in two types; Propane and Butane. Without going into the differences between them in chemical structure, here are the main differences:
Propane • Usually used in vehicles where multiple appliances will be running off it. • Ideal for cold climates as it operates
down to -40°C! • It’s much lighter and less dense than Butane.

Butane • Operates more efficiently than Propane. • It’s denser than propane, so a bottle of the same size will hold more gas. • Butane can’t be used at temperatures below 0°C (It cools down to a liquid state). Different appliances may need one or the other of the main LPGs to operate effectively, so it’s always worth checking that before you buy. Gas Safety Rules • The standard that applies to campervans is BS EN 1949: 2001 + A1:2013. If you ever want more information, it is worth looking that up. • There isn’t the same level of regulations for fitting gas and gas appliances to motor homes and campervans as there is to houses, but would still recommend that anyone installing an appliance is registered. • If you’re installing gas appliances into your campervan, the British Standard isn’t mandatory, unless you’re going to be hiring that vehicle out. • If you are going to be hiring, ensuring that everything is compliant with the law is down to you, just as it would be if you owned a house or flat that you were renting out. • You’re allowed to undertake work yourself if you’re not a registered gas engineer, as long as you’re competent. (The definition of competence is vague, but you’ve got to ask yourself whether you’d be happy to undertake the work and have the responsibility on your shoulders).

There’s a lot that could potentially go wrong, and the stakes are certainly high, so it may well be worth getting a registered engineer to fit it. • Registered gas engineers can charge anywhere between £30 and £100 an hour, but it’s worth looking around in your area if and when you need one. Top Tips for Gas Safety • Ensure the gas is turned off before you travel. • If you’re using your vehicle for work purposes and carrying compressed gas, you must show a sticker to alert people. • If you’re not using your vehicle for work, but still carry compressed gas, it is advised to have a warning sticker displayed whilst carrying the gas. • Unless your campervan or motor home has a rotating rooftop device, you’re limited to carrying two 10 litre bottles of gas in the UK. • All flammable gasses must be carried upright at all times. • Make sure you’ve got a Carbon Monoxide alarm. They might not be stylish, but they’re potentially lifesaving.

Note that LPG gasses are heavier than air, so will form a ‘puddle’ on the ground in the event of a leak. • Floor vents must be kept clear. • If parked up in snow/mud/etc then ensure that the vents aren’t blocked. • Changing the bottle is the most dangerous time, always make sure that you know how to remove and fit the regulator and keep well away from naked flames when changing the bottle. • Don’t use a naked flame to look for a leak (sounds obvious!) and check for pipe leaks by using water and washing up liquid solution, bubbles will appear at a leak. • Make sure you have a fire blanket and/or fire extinguisher, as well as a fire alarm. • If you’ve got an older VW it is recommended to carry an extinguisher any way, in case of a dreaded engine fire. Can you really have too many extinguishers in an old VW? The rules and tips for gas safety aren’t complicated and if you keep to them, the use of gas in your campervan is perfectly safe and an excellent resource. Enjoy your campers this spring!