To the uninitiated, the engine bay of a Bus can be an alien environment, full of strange-looking oily bits, but it is really very simple, once you know your way around…
The flat four VW engine is a pretty straightforward beast. After all, it did originate in the 1930s, and its design altered little during its extended lifetime. In general, it is also a very reliable unit, and it is a rare occurence that it will break to an extent that you cannot get home. A couple of members of staff here in the Camper&Bus offices have even managed to coax their sick Dubs home having dropped a valve! However, despite its inherent reliability, the trusty flat four still needs to be looked after, so neglect it at your peril! And always remember that, even if it’s new or reconditioned, the engine in your Bus is not a modern unit, with service intervals every 20,000 miles, that you can thrash from cold and never think twice about. To keep it happy, it needs regular maintenance and oil changes. Carry these out and hopefully you will not need most of the information in this section!
If there are only two things that you keep an eye on, ensure they are oil condition and engine temperature. VW did not see fit to bless its Buses with a great oil filtration system (except for late fuel injection ones) and the factory set up does a very good impression of a tea strainer but very little actual filtering. So change the oil every 3,000 miles with a good 30w mineral oil and keep on top of the other procedures we’ve listed in our tech guide section and you should experience many trouble-free miles, even if you experience some small hiccups along the way.
Below is a quick guide to what’s what in the engine bay of your Bus. (You can click on the image to see it larger).
Carburettor – Most air-cooled engines came with just one of these. It can often be the source of idling issues.
Distributor – This distributes the spark to each clinder. No spark means no running.
Fuel pump – All air-cooled VW engines were equipped with a mechanical fuel pump. These can and do fail.
Dynamo – This generates the electric power for the car and charges the battery when you’re on the move.
Bottom pulley – This carries the fan belt. If it is loose, oil can leak from the engine.
Fan belt – Runs the dynamo / alternator and keeps the cooling fan cooling.
Coil – Stores electrical energy to provide a spark to the spark plugs.
Inlet manifold – This channels the air / fuel mixture from the carburettor to the cylinder heads
Spark plug leads – Four of these, they transmit the spark from the distributor to the plugs.
Spark plugs – Create the spark that ignites the fuel in the cylinder.
Heater hose – Directs air from the cooling fan to the heat exchangers.
Air cleaner – Prevents wear-inducing dirt entering the engine.
Oil breather – Allows excess crankcase pressure to escape.
Oil filler – You need to be able to put oil in somewhere!
Warmaircontrol flap – Directs warm air into the carburettor to prevent it icing up on cold days. Allegedly.
Warm air hose – Provides the supply of warm air to the aforementioned control flap.
Dip stick – Shows engine oil level.
Oil pressure switch – Triggers a dash warning light to alert you of low oil pressure.
Fuel filter – Prevents the carburettor filling up with dirt.
Tinware – Directs the vital cooling air around the engine.
QUASI-SPECIALISED TOOLS FOR YOUR VOLKSWAGEN TRANSPORTER
Compiled & Written by Nigel A. Skeet
Although many DIY mechanics, will already have assembled a reasonable kit of basic tools, for both regular maintenance and emergency repairs when touring, there are a few more specialised items, that might be needed, which are not so readily available, at reasonable prices.
XZN Socket-Screw Tools
During the early-to-mid 1970s, Volkswagen (now includes Audi, Seat & Skoda) introduced the use of XZN 12-pointed-spline socket screws (aka triple-square | so called, because the 12-pointed star shape, with 90º corners, can be created by rotating three superimposed, identical concentric squares, spaced by 30º ), where Allen socket-head (hexagon-shaped socket), conventional hexagonal bolt-head, conventional slot-head or Philips-head screws had previously been used, because the XZN socket screws can tolerate much greater torques, without damaging either the screw-head or the tool. Other German car manufacturers, such as BMW, Porsche and Mercedes, also use XZN socket screws.
On the 1972~79 VW Type 2s & 1980~92/93 VW Type 25s (aka Vanagon, in North America), the XZN socket screws, have three important applications, but they are much more widely used on the post-1992, VW Transporter T4s & T5s; being used for quite diverse applications, such as brake calipers, suspension and door locks. So far as I have been able to determine, it is only XZN socket screws, with an M8 thread, which are used on the 1972~79 VW Type 2s & 1980~91/92 VW Type 25s; having the following applications.
(1) Drive-shaft, constant-velocity-joint securing screws (total of 24), factory-fitted, from circa 1973/74 onward and now sold as replacements, by Just Kampers et al.
(2) Two securing screws, for the mechanical fuel pump, on VW 17/18/2000 Type 4 style air-cooled engines, factory-fitted with twin carburettors.
(3) Single alternator-adjustment screw, on VW 17/18/2000 Type 4 style air-cooled engines
Many of the earlier-model vehicles, were equipped with the more commonly used Allen socket-head screws, but these might have since been replaced with XZN socket screws; especially if the constant velocity joints have been renewed or screws had been lost by careless mechanics.
Replacement XZN 12-pointed-spline (triple-square), socket screws, for fastening constant-velocity joints.
Several years ago, towards the end of a closing-down sale, at a local tool & general hardware store, I bought a job lot, of good-quality SUPERSLIM-brand, 1/2-inch drive, 8 mm sized, XZN socket tools, two of which I have kept for my own use; stored permanently in my garage and touring-emergency tool kits. Over the past few years, I have since sporadically sold more than a dozen of the remainder (at least two to members of the motor trade), via classified advertisements, posted on various VAG related Internet forums.
If in the future, you need to replace either your VW Transporter’s four flexible brake hoses or 3/16-inch (i.e. 4½ mm) rigid brake pipes, you will need to unfasten the 11 mm AF brake-pipe unions. A conventional fully-enclosed ring spanner, cannot be used for this task and an open-ended spanner (i.e. crowfoot wrench in North American parlance) or adjustable spanner, will typically fail to provide sufficient purchase; damaging the union in the process. However, special brake-pipe-union spanners are available, which resemble ultra-heavy-duty ring spanners, with a circa 6~7 mm cut-out, to fit over the brake pipe.
Brake-service spanners
Top – Williams Superslim ADJ 45, Imperial (1/4-inch & 5/16-inch) square-hole brake-adjustment spanner
Middle – Williams Superslim UNIMIL 110, metric (10 mm & 11 mm AF) brake-pipe-union spanner
Bottom – Williams Superslim UNI 78, Imperial (7/16-inch & 1/2-inch AF) brake-pipe-union spanner
I possess both metric (10 mm & 11 mm AF) and Imperial (7/16-inch & 1/2-inch AF) brake-pipe spanners, for use on my 1973 VW “1600” Type 2 and 1974 BLMC Triumph 1300 Toledo-Dolomite hybrid. In addition, I also have an Imperial (1/4-inch & 5/16-inch) square-hole brake-adjustment spanner, for the Triumph’s rear-drum-brakes’ snail-cam adjusters, which I suspect might also be used, for unfastening the 1968~79 VW Type 2 gear-selector linkage’s square-headed bolts. Other sizes & specifications of brake-service spanners are also available.
Pictures are unfortunately missing from this story.
The Family firm of Kemperink was founded in the 1890’s in Harbrinkoek near Almelo in Holland.
It was involved in various different trades including coach trimming. In 1931 it became specialist coach building firm, which also converted and built heavy goods wagons.
The original idea for the VW Transporter came from Dutchman Ben Pon and from the very beginning of the 1950’s these vehicles have proved to be extremely popular in Holland.
Volkswagen were already producing many different sorts of utility vehicle based on the VW transporter these included closed vans, pickups, ambulances, minibuses and fire engines. But soon traders were demanding a vehicle that offered more space.
It was Kemperink who came up with the first real solution. In 1954 they built the first LWB VW transporter. Basically a normal VW pickup chassis was lengthened by 90cm and a box van type section was then fitted.
This changed the wheelbase from 2400mm to 3300mm and produced a lightweight box van capable of carrying bulky goods, which could be loaded by pallet from the side or rear of the vehicle.
It offered a incredible 10 cubic metres of interior space instead of the standard 5 cubic metres. This was a lot better than almost every other 1 tonne van in production at the time. It was still powered by the 1192cc 40 hp engine and had an unloaded weight of 1200 – 1315kg.
The first van produced was delivered to a mattress manufacturer in Rotterdam. This was then followed by an order from a biscuit manufacturer called Bolletje who ordered several vehicles. This in turn led to orders from clothing company C & A, and a very lucrative order from the Dutch army.
Kemperink produced 2 basic models; The long and the tall (Lang und hoch)
Der Kastenwagen – Bestelwagen (a LWB high top)
Die Pritsche – (a lengthened pickup)
The Bestelwagen (unless a special order) was usually supplied without windows. The high top rear cabin consisted of a square section tubular steel frame with steel sides. The roof section is made of fibreglass and to compensate for lack of windows was usually left with a clear centre section to allow for natural lighting of the interior. Early split screen van versions had a flat roof profile with rounded edges. Later Bay window vehicles had bowed roof profile, which gives extra headroom inside. Being based on the pickup, all vehicles had separate cabs. Early vehicles had twin (or single) opening side doors and (usually) a very large rear door fitted with gas struts.
It is possible (but unconfirmed) that several Crew Cab versions of the “Die Pritsche” were produced. An example is EFX178T, previously owned by Just Kampers
During the 60’s and 70’s the Kemperink evolved from split screen to Bay window but little else changed to the basic vehicle.
The only major change during that period was the option of a sliding door instead of opening side doors or shutters. This vehicle was designated the `Bestelwagen Special’.
From this basic spec, hundreds of these vehicles would be converted into many other different types of utility vehicles ranging from basic vans to mobile shops. The Dutch army used them as radio rooms, supply vehicles and mobile kitchens. Many were also used for camper conversions.
They take a bit of getting use to when driving. Most were fitted with 1600cc (or less) engines. Visibility is very poor especially if no windows were fitted. Maneuvers and stopping have to be planned! . However driving a Kemp is fun as wherever you go it always attracts attention.
Weak spots?. Front axles and wiring (the wiring loom is chopped and rejoined with 90 cm section). Brakes could do with servo. The chop job bodywork was very poor. Lots of filler added and little body protection reapplied to new bits. Custom built cables required for brakes, clutch, heaters and throttle.
By the end of the 1970’s there was a lot of competition from VW themselves – after 20 years VW finally came up with their own LWB vehicle (the LT) and this proved to be the downfall of Kemperink.Shortly after Volkswagen introduced the T3 Transporter in 1979, production of Kemperinks came to an end.
Altogether about 2000 vehicles of all types were produced.
GOING DUTCH – KEMPERINKS IN THE UK
My information on the history of Kemperinks in the UK is fairly sketchy.
Many have been brought in the UK over the years as personal imports. However I do know that they have also been sold through official VW dealers.
During the early 1970’s Dovercourt of St Johns Wood sold 10 Kemperinks. Sales were stopped when several of them developed bodywork faults due to them being overloaded by owners expecting to carry a lot more than they were originally designed. The section beneath the sliding doors was being bent by heavy pallet loading. I know also of several cases of broken front axles.
Amazingly whilst searching through a heap of old VW/Mann press release video’s I found one that features a Kemperink plumbers van as part of the official VW/Mann commercial range.
Kemperinks biggest claim to fame in the UK was an appearance by at least 2 Kemperinks at the 1974 Earls Court Motor Show.
I believe this is the one and only official Kemperink camper produced by the firm for the UK market. It was in very good condition when I first saw it Unfortunately I had just bought the heap of rust that became my current van and was unable to take it on.
It was in a poor state the second time I met up with it.
The Camper had several owners. There are 8 years between the two above photo’s. (I nearly bought it myself twice!)
Its remains have ended up with Paul Venners (of “Botch Boys” Fame) who is probably now blatting it up and down Santa pod raceway.
This Bestelwagen Special – box van was bought by Leatherbarrows removals and was used to transport tea chests for 7 years . It then had three further owners before ending up as a building service, plumbing and repair van with Herman Hock around 1989 until 1994. I am not sure of its history after that.
“BIG SIX” at VW ACTION 1983
“Big Six” is probably the most famous UK Kemperink. The customised Splitty previously owned by Mac Attwood, Gerald and Lynne Mulford and later by Mike Williams (I’m not sure if he is still the current owner). It also spent a small part of its life on my drive.
Big Six and my Bay Kemperink spent lots of time together!
Originally a Dutch bakers van this vehicle was customised by Mac using all steel parts and given a very gruesome paint job, featuring three headed dogs, dragons, headless ladies etc. It was given a third `fake’ axle using trailer indespension units (hence the six wheels). The earliest mention and picture I have of it is at VW Action 1983. This vehicle is certainly the meanest looking one about. The extra wheels meant it was also a nightmare to reverse and lost drive going over speed humps. No problem with punctures though! The Big Six is still on the road (last seen in Newquay 2001)
Kemp in a korn field
This is my own Kemperink, which started life as a normal pickup and was then sent (as one of a pair of RHD pickups) from the UK to Holland for conversion in the late 1970’s by a firm of bakers in Southend on Sea called “The Bread Roll Company”. That company went bust in the mid 1980’s and my vehicle then passed to a grocery firm. (I believe that its sister van was then converted by Devon Conversions – no trace found).
Several windows were then added and a very ropy home made camper conversion added.
My Kemp as bought (with MOT!). Front wings were paper mache.
It was in very poor condition when I got it in 1989 and took nearly 2 years to get it back on the road and convert it into my dream camper. It has been featured in several books and has undergone several changes over the years as family size has increased (from 3 + dog to 6 + dog!). Its original 1600 engine has been replaced with a 2000 unit. It is now a walkthrough instead of separate cab. It is now well overdue for a further upgrade and restoration but will (hopefully) be seen on the road again later this year.
The long and the short of it.. Kemp and “Dolly Mixture” a shorty split.
Kemp plus trailer tent `extension’ which now goes with us on some trips.
I know of the existence of several other Bay Kemperinks.
In recent years several other Kemp imports including Splits have appeared, many are ex Dutch army vehicles and in very good condition.
In total there are still probably less than 15 roadworthy Kemperinks in the UK today; though I am fully expecting that a lot more will appear in the next few years as a Kemp is now definitely one of `the’ classic Type II’s to own.
By Matthew ‘Taff’ Hart – formerly VWT2OC Treasurer
The circumstances that have led me to write this article happened a few years ago now, but it has since occurred to me that the solution to my problem was actually quite difficult to find and so I hope that this will help spread the word to the more hands on DIY mechanics amongst us.
We live in Manchester and one summer we went on a trip to Silloth in Cumbria with our three children in Nancy, our ’68 Bay window van.
On the way to Silloth I noticed the red light come on in the instrument panel. This meant there was something wrong with the electrical charging system on the van. Given that we were nearly at our destination (139 miles according to Google Maps) there was no way we were turning round so we completed the journey there and had a lovely holiday. I chose to worry about the problem on the way back as we have AA Relay cover and so would get home one way or the other.
To begin the journey home we jump started the van in order to minimise the drain on the battery using the jump leads I always carry. It started up no problem and we went on our way. We had to stop for petrol on the way home which was unfortunate, but it started off the battery at the next services so we carried on our way.
The red light stayed on all the way home and the voltage reading slowly dropped on the cab mounted volt meter and to make matters worse it was starting to go dark.
As we hit the M60 I put on the lights. This caused the van to die as (presumably) no spark was being produced in the engine but it fired up again when I turned the lights off so we had to drive the last five miles or so without lights (not recommended but needs must).
We got home without being pulled over by the police or any further incident and the next weekend I set about trying to sort out what the problem was. On investigation I found that the generator/dynamo was dead.
Picture of my engine bay with generator identified. Note also hydrogen generator pictured – left – possibly subject of another article.
It is a simple enough job to replace the generator, so I went about this myself and it was an afternoon’s job for a DIY mechanic to do.
I started the van (after trickle charging the battery) and the red light was still on. Disaster! What had I done wrong? Was the new generator faulty? Would I need to take it to a garage? All these thoughts ran through my mind so I packed up for the day and started researching what the issue might be.
At the time I only had what is considered to be a bible for many car enthusiasts – the Haynes manual. This didn’t mention anything that I hadn’t done and checked when I fitted the new part. This baffled me further and so when talking to friends about the problem, someone mentioned (eventually) whether I had energized the dynamo. This was news to me so I started to search for the term on the internet. I eventually came across the term polarizing the generator which seemed to be a more universal term.
Rob and Dave’s Air cooled Volkswagen Pages has the following to say on the matter of generator polarisation/ energising.
When a generator has been left unused for a long time (months or years), or has been rebuilt, the metal core looses it’s magnetism, and it NEEDS a little residual magnetism to start the charging process. Polarizing just gives it enough “boost” in magnetism to start it charging properly. When it’s being used, it keeps its core polarized core so no need to do it again.
Note: Why do generators need to be “polarized”? Automobile generators need some magnetism to get started. This “residual” magnetism remains in the field pole pieces even after the engine has stopped. The next time the generator starts up, the residual magnetism creates a small voltage in the armature windings. Not enough to charge the battery, but enough to allow the field windings to draw current. As the field current increases, the pole pieces create even more magnetism. That makes even more voltage in the armature, and the cycle continues until the generator is capable of producing maximum output.
What happens though to a generator which has been stored a long time or is freshly rebuilt? The residual magnetism may have decreased to the point where it can no longer get the generator started producing voltage. In the case of a new generator or one which has been mis-treated, the residual may even be of the wrong direction (North and South poles reversed). Polarization is a simple process used to restore the field pole residual magnetism and ensure the magnetic direction is correct.
To polarize a generator, connect a jumper wire from the (DF) terminal on the generator to the generator frame. Remove the fan belt, then connect a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the (D+) terminal on the generator. The generator shaft should start to spin.
Note: Don’t run the generator this way for more than a few seconds to avoid overheating.
The generator will now be properly polarized. If the generator did not spin during this process, the generator is most likely defective.
Put the fan belt back on and re-test the generator voltage with the (DF) terminal grounded. If the output voltage is still low, the generator is defective.
This picture shows the suggested wiring set up for polarising the generator from Bentley’s Volkswagen Service Manual Type 2 – 68-79.
Note: Voltage regulators do not need to be polarized — they are not polarity sensitive. Even if voltage regulator came with instructions to polarize it — these instructions actually polarize the generator, not the regulator. The regulator manufacturer simply wants to make sure that your generator will work properly so you don’t blame the voltage regulator.
Alternators do not need to be polarized. Alternators use a trigger current to start the process of charging – electromagnetism, so don’t need any internal magnetism to begin with, like a generator does.
That trigger current is supplied via the alternator dash light (it’s a tiny current and won’t make the light glow when the engine is running) so if that bulb blows – the battery won’t get charged and it will go flat. Curious circuitry VW used, but it works just fine. So that means that with an alternator equipped VW, you should always glance at the dash as you turn the key and make sure the Alt light does glow with just the key on, just to make sure that that circuit is intact.
I performed the task suggested, and lo and behold! I started to get a voltage showing on my volt meter in the van dashboard. Job done…. or so i thought…
A few weeks later, the volt meter showed that the voltage was not as “normal” again. This time the tests on the generator showed it was generating voltage, and further tests eventually traced it back to the regulator this time. I think the increased efficiency of output of the new generator tipped the regulator over the edge and burnt it out in the time the two were together. Again, a quick afternoon job buying and replacing the regulator did the trick and I have had many miles of happy service since then.
Conclusion
In summary, I think the above information is vital for anyone replacing an early type electrical charging part on their van but is very little publicised. A simple extra but obscure task can make the difference between success and admitting defeat and can save several hours paying a mechanic. I hope you think it’s useful too.
Lessons learned
A van battery will allow one start and around 150 miles of driving without being charged by the electrical system.
When replacing the generator on a van, energise it in the manner described above.
You might as well replace the voltage regulator at the same time, as a replacement generator seems to overload the existing one.
Buy a copy of How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive; A Manual of Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot. It’s a good read and has many tips in there you won’t find in the more conventional manuals.
Rob and Dave’s Air cooled Volkswagen Pages – http://www.vw-resource.com – has some extremely useful advice about keeping your Volkswagen alive too!
What started out as a suggestion from long time club member Paul Turner (second page, bottom left image) for sitting in your van and having a cuppa turned into the largest meeting, albeit virtual, seen by the club in many years.
Another wonderful turn-out from the Club! Dressing up and Stone Henge appeared in many of our members’ photos, to celebrate the Summer Solstice, in lieu of our planned Isle of Wight Club Camp. That’s been put off till next year, but you can spend a few enjoyable minutes looking over these photos instead. No ice creams, though, I’m afraid…
On the ferryAnn Eaton dressing in styleDerek and Christie’s one owner Bay window “Daisy” enjoying the Solstice sunsetStaying safe!Ian Jennings with the BBQ going (jealous)Kirsteen’s stunning interiorA mini dubfest!Lorna and Nick and “stone hinge” (yes, we need to get out more)Dressing up for Lulu WrightSusan Drake enjoying a drinkMalcolm and Val (and Lottie) enjoying Stonehenge in their gardenComplete with their T25 Connie and the club trailer
What a splendid spectacle our members created in celebration of VE Day’s 75th anniversary! Bunting, Union Jacks, costumes, musicians, champagne, tea and cake, and even a Land Girl 😊 Here’s what our members got up to on 8th May 2020.
Six times each year, our editors prepare a magazine packed with over 40 pages of news, club event updates, tips from the mechanics, updates from the committee, members motors, club discounts and more.
Membership costs just £25 per year and just one of many discounts is £20 off the entrance to Busfest for the member!
Access to back issues is available to club members, and over 800 club members have just had the latest magazine drop through their door. Join today!
The next edition of the club magazine has been finished by our Editors and looks fantastic. It should be arriving through your door soon!
If you are enjoying the club magazine and have a story about a trip, an upgrade, a restoration or just a tip, send a contribution to our Editor Phil at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk.
Installation of Propex HS2000 in a 1974 T2 Bay (Dougal) by Mark Henley
Introduction
We purchased our van “Dougal” just over a year ago having been VW Beetle owners on and off for a few years. My wife and I attend music festivals as part of Oxfam’s festival team and having camped in a small 2-man tent, we felt we deserved some luxury, plus getting in and out of the tent at 57 was taking its toll on my knees – hence Dougal appeared.
Dougal was everything we wanted, if we had a hook-up, we would take a small fan heater and all was toasty and cosy, especially in that last hour or so before you get into bed, and in that first hour when you wake. Without a hook-up life was not so rosy (but infinitely better than a 2-man tent) so we decided to invest in a Propex Heater HS2000. I ordered it online as a kit and it arrived within 2 days for me to fit over a year later – it was a job I left on the backburner 🙂 (Sorry).
Mainly as a result of Covid-19, I have time and the motivation (not being bored) to install it. Like most blokes I’m a great one for not following procedures, but broadly I followed the supplied instructions, which were in fact a help. Below I have added some other bits and pictures which I hope will help anyone else with time on their hands to do this. I installed it under the rock and roll bed (which is what many people do).
Step 0 – Tools, Bits and Bobs
Review the kit contents and make sure you have the right tools for the job.
The kit will have components for a gas connection from a gas bottle to the heater, however you may already have a cooker and/or a refrigerator that already runs from your bottle. If this is the case, you will need a t-piece or a small manifold to ensure the heater has a supply without affecting other appliances. If running a large number of appliances, then you may want to switch to Propane which runs at about 30% higher pressure than Butane (but a bottle doesn’t last as long) – a Propane regulator is supplied with the kit.
There are no 8mm gas pipe fixing clips supplied in the kit. You will need to have a handful of these to fix the 8mm copper pipe to the sides of cupboards or the floor of the van (to keep the pipe where you want it).
A minimum of jubilee pipe clips are supplied in the kit but it was two less than I needed – buy some!
PTFE tape is useful for a good gastight seal on threaded fittings.
You will be cutting 2 x 40mm holes in your van floor, it would be a good idea to buy 2 x 40mm grommets to put around the sharp metal edges.
High temperature sealant.
Wire strippers/crimpers would’ve been useful, but I managed with pliers.
A good electric drill is a must!
95mm and 40mm hole saws are needed for the air vent holes and the exhaust/air intake holes.
A small gauge pipe cutter is a must if you want a good compression seal.
A multi-meter or one of those light-up screwdrivers will be needed to test your electrical installation.
If you haven’t got a spare switch on your domestic panel then a switch to isolate the unit electrically is a good idea (some people have seen a bit of current drain when the unit has been connected directly to the battery).
An 8mm gas isolation valve (ball type).
In hindsight I wish I’d bought a small gauge pipe bending tool – much easier than trying to bend the pipe around the outside of a coffee mug!
A coat hanger (all will become clear).
Step 1 – Preparation
Empty your van!
Remove anything from under the seat/bed. Remove the bedding/cushions (the bedding might need an air anyway).
Remove everything from the cupboards between the bed and the side of the van. (In fact, remove absolutely everything from all your cupboards because its time you had a sort out – there won’t be as much room for storage under the bed with a heater there!).
Remove the gas bottle from its locker/cupboard to somewhere out of the way.
FIND SOMETHING TO HOLD THE BED UP WITH! (Or buy some large plasters for your head).
Step 2 – Safety
The battery was disconnected. I have a starter and a service battery so I disconnected both. I’d be drilling some big holes later on and messing about with the main control panel. Safety glasses are a must when drilling or working under the van. Thin rubber gloves aren’t essential but good to have also.
Step 3 – Where shall I put it?
I had already decided on a suitable location for the heater. The only viable location in Dougal was in the bed box so I crawled underneath and using the 4 bed frame bolts as reference points I found a suitable obstruction free area in which to drill pilot holes for the exhaust and air intake pipes. I drilled a small test hole – which is a very good idea as I’d managed to get the front/back the wrong way around when I was underneath, and the test hole came out somewhere I didn’t expect it!
Having drilled the pilot holes in the right place and filled the previous test hole (and checked underneath again) I had a crisis of confidence. Do I really want to drill 2 one and a half inch holes in the bottom of my pride and joy?
One quick pep-talk by the missus later and it was done. No going back now.
Why do the holes need to be 40mm wide?? I have looked online and there are a few reasons offered – so you can attach the pipes and jubilee clips from above seems to be a popular one (I tried that and it didn’t fit), to give you wriggle room if your measurements are a bit out is another, to give space around the hot exhaust pipe perhaps (which makes sense because of the heat), or to act as a drop vent for any future gas leak maybe (that also makes sense as the heater is installed slightly off the floor). Whatever the reasons I stuck to the instructions, but emailed Propex for a view. [Since writing this they confirmed 40mm holes give a heat safety margin. Propex also stated the holes can be filled with high temperature sealant but that in line with good safety practice, a gas drop vent is needed].
To finish the holes off I coated the insides with a little wood preserver and a touch of anti-rust on the edges of the metal floor pan.
It’s possible at this point to fix the heater to the floor using the brackets and screws provided but my preference was to leave that until I knew everything matched up (it better had – I’ve just drilled 2 bleeding big holes in the floor!).
Step 4 – Power and Control
The kit comes with 2 looms – one for power (12V dc), and the other for control via a switch/thermostat control box.
Dougal has a domestic fuse panel and switch bank to the rear which had a spare switch (marked “spare” so I knew it was spare). I would advise using a spare switch if you have one or fitting an isolating switch to the heater as some people have reported an amount of “leakage” which has slowly run the service battery down.
To access the fuse panel and the rear of the switch panel required disassembling the rear storage cupboard, the pieces of which were carefully stored with corresponding screws for ease of re-assembly.
The fuse panel has a 12V DC bus so instead of using the fuse holder supplied, it was easy to utilise an empty position on the panel which was then wired to one side of the spare switch. The other side of the switch is used by the positive lead on the power loom. The 5 Amp fuse supplied was inserted into the fuse panel.
Now for the hard bit – feeding the 2 looms through the bottom of the bed box, through the water tank store and through to the back where the fuse panel/switch terminals are. A hole already existed for other electrical wires on the floor of the bed box where it enters the cupboards, however it was not large enough to allow an additional 2 sets of wires through, and there wasn’t room for a small drill, so gently using a chisel (actually not so gently) the hole was enlarged to allow the plastic thermostat connector and power feed to pass through (Arghhh – after doing this I subsequently found out that the plastic connector can be detached and reattached to the wires – making the job a tiny bit easier!).
In order to pull the wires through to the back I used a straightened coat hanger which was pushed through the small hole for other wires going to the back, the power and control leads were taped to it and then pulled through. Of course, if you want to do it the easy way and feed the cables from the back to the front then feel free!
The power cable ends were terminated appropriately and the red one fed to the “spare” switch, the black one to earth.
At this point I decided to test the power connection. You could leave it until the end but testing it at this point would a) prevent a lot of rework later on, and b) give you a reasonable feeling that you know you are doing ok!
I reconnected the service battery briefly, turned the isolating switch on, and tested the voltage at the heater end of the power feed – 12.8V!! Marvellous!
I disconnected the battery again before going any further.
The next decision was to decide on a location for the thermostat. The instructions state anywhere between waist and shoulder height. At shoulder height I’d imagine the heater will take very little time to get up to temperature as heat rises, consequently it may be cooler lower down. At waist height it would take longer to get to temperature but be warmer lower down. As we spend a lot of time sat down in Dougal, we decided the best option would be to position the thermostat just above waist height, sited on the domestic switch panel and accessible from lying down in bed J.
Using an 8mm drill, 3 holes were drilled close together and then filed to form a slot to pass the plastic connector through. The control unit was then fixed to the surface using the screws provided.
The control connector halves snapped together quite easily and then the various wires were tidied up using the cable ties provided. Any excess wire from either loom was cable tied in the cupboard.
At this point I screwed the heater to the van floor, removed the electronics cover on the heater and connected first the thermostat connector, and then the power cable. If for any reason you have left the power on and connect the power first, then you risk blowing the mother board in the unit (it doesn’t mention this in the instructions but seemed to be a hot topic on various internet forums). After fitting the cable grommets and replacing the cover I used cable clips to tidy everything up in the bed box.
Step 5 – Exhausted Already
This was a case of making sure you take everything with you that you need as there is nothing as tiring as getting under your van three, four or even five times to get a screw, a clip, a screwdriver, cable ties, etc., that you forgot to take in the first place. It took me four goes and one of those was to get safety glasses to keep dirt out of my eyes (a good tip).
I also found I had a lot more room by jacking up one side of Dougal.
I used the jubilee clip supplied to fix the exhaust pipe to the heater. Before this I had decided on a route for the pipe that fulfils both the technical requirements, namely that;
the pipe should run slightly downhill (to drain any condensate), and that
the pipe should point anywhere from just to the rear of the heater exhaust pipe to fully pointing backwards.
The pipe preferably should exhaust towards the edge of the vehicle but as long as the two criteria are met, and it isn’t exhausting into an enclosed box section then you should be ok. Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air so will pool under the van and slowly dissipate. It’s also a good idea to make sure the exhaust is on the opposite side to the sliding door otherwise you could be exhausting into your awning and anyone sleeping in there may be hard to wake up!
The instructions also advised not to place the exhaust within 50cm of a fuel tank breather vent.
Due to the placement of my heater I couldn’t quite reach the sill of the van but it was close enough and fulfilled the technical requirements, so I was pretty happy. There was also a convenient unused cable tab for me to attach the pipe clip to.
The inlet air pipe followed a similar route, again pointing slightly to the rear of the vehicle and was long enough to reach the sill. Both pipes were specified lengths to make the heater run efficiently. Do not shorten them!
I decided to seal in the exhaust pipe with RTV High temperature sealant but left the air intake hole open to act as a gas drop vent for the bed box.
Step 6 – It’s a Gas Gas Gas!
According to the regulations (BS EN 1949), if you are going to hire your van out, you need to have the gas system fitted and tested by a Gas Safe Registered engineer (still a Corgi engineer in my head). If you aren’t hiring it out, you can have a go yourself (yikes) but it is still a good idea at some point to get it checked out by a registered engineer. On boats it is an insurance requirement to have the system certified every year, or after any change. Gas explosions and CO poisoning are the main causes of leisure boat fatalities in the UK. I suspect the risks in campervans are possibly higher as there is no legal or insurance requirement to get gas systems checked by competent people.
Food for thought, but by following simple guidelines you stand a very good chance of installing a good gastight system.
Provide unique isolation for the appliance being fitted, so if there is an issue with the appliance it can be taken out of line without affecting anything else.
Minimise the number of joints – if possible, use pipe bent to shape rather than compression fittings – it minimises potential leaks.
Only use rubber gas hose where you need the flexibility i.e. in the gas locker. It should be as short as possibly needed. All other pipe should be treated as part of a permanent installation and be copper/steel.
Flexible pipes should be replaced every 5 years (the manufactured date is on the pipe).
Gas lockers, if internal, should fitted with a vent/drain.
Only use PTFE tape on threaded non-compression fittings. PTFE can stop a compression fitting from being effective.
Like a house, protect your pipes from damage by keeping them within the confines of the vehicle. I have seen a couple of YouTube videos where the pipes are routed underneath the vehicle and I personally think it’s asking for trouble.
Happy with your installation, then test it for leaks.
It was a long time ago, but I did part of my apprenticeship as a gas pipe fitter with two Glaswegians from Corby. It’s just a shame I never understood a word they said. Anyhow I don’t have a copy of the standard and at £150 I probably won’t bother but you won’t go too far wrong if you follow the above.
My run of copper pipe to the gas locker was relatively simple – heater to small ball valve, valve to gas locker through the bottom of the water cupboard. I made a hole in the locker to house the kit-supplied rubber to copper fitting which I swapped for a bulkhead fitting to enable it to be secured on the wall of the locker. I used PTFE to put the brass elbow in the heater unit – all the other fittings were compression fittings.
4 joints in total to test, which I did by connecting the rubber hose directly to the gas bottle. I filled a large syringe (don’t ask) with 50/50 fairy liquid and water. At this point my wife came out to see if I had a drug problem she should know about, and on watching me squirt the joints with the mixture remarked “Ooh, should it be blowing bubbles like that?”.
Damn! Still a 75% success rate, and the offending joint was tightened up and retested satisfactorily.
Oh, and make sure you have kitchen roll under the joints being tested.
Step 7 – A very expensive hairdryer
It made sense at this point to test the whole system so I connected the hot air pipe to the unit with the large jubilee clip, reconnected the battery, turned the gas on, turned the “spare” switch on at the panel, and switched the controller to “flame”. I’d asked my wife to come out for the grand switch on, my kids weren’t interested, and my neighbours weren’t allowed to be there because of social distancing otherwise I’d have asked them round.
Bugger! The LED that should’ve been green was flashing red L. A quick read of the installation instructions and I discovered that due to the initial absence of gas the unit had “locked out”. One quick reset later and I tried again. Success J. By this time my wife had wandered off to feed the cats or do something more interesting. I celebrated alone but was chuffed to bits.
Step 8 – Tidying up
It’s relatively simple to install the air vents in the bed box front, once you get past the idea of drilling 2 very large 95mm holes. Once done there isn’t a lot left to do other than maybe protect the unit with a cover – so you can still use the storage space – and enjoy the heat!
Actually, one very important thing, if you haven’t installed one already, is to install a CO Alarm. If you already have one, check when you bought it as they tend to need replacing after 7 years (some may last 10 years).
Unfortunately, we can’t go anywhere as yet so we are confined to sitting in Dougal on the drive, but at least it’s warm!
