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Ask The Mechanic – Valve Clearances

This week, we focus on valve clearances on Type 1 engines (Beetle, Split Screen, Bay window and early T25s), courtesy of 2-year club member John Hawthorn and his 1980 Westfalia Bay window. If you have a technical way forward with your vehicle, email editor@vwt2oc.co.uk for inclusion in a future post.

MY EXPERIENCE OF VALVE CLEARANCE SETTINGS AND OTHER MUSINGS by John Hawthorn

I drive a Volkswagen Transporter 2, 1980 Bay Window model with a 1600cc AS series engine. I like to try and do servicing work on the vehicle myself and leave technical, or jobs requiring specialist tools, to the experts. This my experience or musings about setting the valve clearances.

Setting the valve clearances, or tappet clearances, is very important if you are going to get the best performance from your four stroke, pushrod engine. The clearance is to allow for expansion when the engine gets hot. If the clearance is too tight the valves may not close correctly, leading to poor performance, damaged valve seats, a lot of popping and banging through the exhaust or carb, and the engine not running at all because it has no compression. To have the gaps too loose affects the valve timing. The valves will open too late, will not fully open and will close too early. The whole point of the valve timing, which is initially determined by the shape of the lobe on your camshaft and getting the camshaft rotation setting correct, is to maximise the efficiency and performance.

My first experience of tappets was when I was 16. My Triumph Tiger 100, a 500cc four stroke engine, had oil leaks from the pushrod tubes, which I decided to fix. Yes, I am that old. Having passed my test at 16, I was legally able to ride an unlimited sized motorcycle without a crash helmet. I had previously only worked on two stroke engines. I removed the engine head, as you need to do, replaced the rubber gaskets, and rebuilt the engine. I then went for a test drive. The engine popped, banged, and backfired. On my return home I consulted my Dad. Originally, he taught me all I knew – he was my mechanic mentor – and importantly he let me learn by trying to do it. So, when I consulted him, he asked if I had set the tappets correctly. I said “No. I left them at the original setting and just bolted the head back on”. If you strip the top end of your engine, you must set your tappets after a rebuild.

My next experience of setting tappets was on my JAP engine speedway bike. If you know speedway you will recognise that in terms of motorcycle racing it is really a sprint. A race usually lasts less than 70 seconds (even I could beat that) and you start with the engine warmed up and ready. You are not likely to add much extra heat to the engine in a race, and therefore no increased expansion. It was also convenient that the tappet adjustment was on the pushrod end of the valve rocker. Our method of valve clearance adjustment was to get the engine hot then tighten the valve clearance so you could just spin the pushrod with your fingers; practically no clearance at all. A method I am still often tempted to follow if I physically could, but perhaps a bit risky if you are about to set off on a long journey and get the engine really hot!

As I gained more knowledge and experience, my slightly OCD nature started to manifest itself. I looked for tools and devices that would enable me to adjust and tune my engines more precisely. I bought an Engine Analyser, primarily so I could set the Dwell Angle on my ignition points and not rely on feeler gauges to set the points gap. It was at this period that I invested in a Gunson Tappet setting tool. For those who are not familiar it incorporates a screwdriver and socket, as opposed to the screwdriver and ring spanner you would normally use. It also has a torque sensitive micrometre cap. When you wind the cap, the screwdriver tightens the valve clearance. When it clicks the valve clearance is fully closed. By knowing the pitch of the thread on the tappet screw the tool now allows you to “back off” the clearance by clicks to set the correct gap. In practice I found this reasonably successful when leaning over an engine bay on a standard saloon car, but not so reliable lying on my back under a VW T2. I could not trust that the thread did not move as I tightened the lock nut, and I resorted to checking with a feeler gauge anyway. The supposed advantage of the tool, when used correctly is that it should be more accurate. On an old engine, the valve stem may have worn an indentation into the rocker arm in which case the real clearance is between the valve and the bottom of the indentation. As the tool relies on you closing the gap fully and setting it from there, this wear is taken into account. A feeler gauge pushed between the valve stem and the rocker will bridge the indentation and make no allowance for it.

And so, to my recent experience. As part of an engine service, I had reset the valve clearances. I had tried to use the tool but resorted to using a pack of feeler gauges for measuring the gap, a screwdriver for the tappet adjustment screw, and a ring spanner for the locking nut. Three tools and only two hands whilst lying on my back. I had not even bothered to put it on ramps or jack it up. If you have tried this, you will know how clumsy a pack of feeler gauges can be, particularly if you have a mixed metric and imperial pack. As I was about to get under the vehicle once again, I noticed that the screw and nut holding all the feeler gauges was loose to the point of falling off. I thought I had better sort that as I did not want all of the feelers falling over my face onto the ground. Imagine having to sort them back into the correct order (or maybe just buy a new set). Then I had the eureka moment. I did not need the whole pack under the vehicle only the 0.006” or 0.15mm gauge. So, I carefully took them apart, making sure I kept them stored in the correct order, and went back under with only one feeler gauge. Life was much easier.

As it happens this experience fits very neatly with another aspect of my OCD nature. When I carry out a job on my T2, I record the tools I need to do the job. Not just the size of a nut and bolt, but whether a ring spanner will fit, or a ratchet spanner or only an open-ended spanner. Perhaps a socket will do, but is it six pointed / twelve pointed? does it need to be a deep socket? or does it need a slim socket? or even a tube spanner? As I build up my knowledge and database, I can also refine the toolkit I carry on the van. Why carry a full set of ring spanners and sockets if you know you only need half a dozen sizes? My investigation, so far, suggests that the only feeler gauges I need are 0.7mm for spark plugs; 0.4mm for ignition points, and 0.15mm for valve clearances.

OK, I have said it myself a few times, I am slightly OCD but I like to know my vehicle and have the tools I need to hand when I do a job. Does anybody else think the same? Are you interested in sharing the knowledge?

Postscript – Valve Recession

There is a slightly more technical issue that I experienced more recently. On the way to the VWT2OC camp at Petruth Paddocks in April this year, my T2 started to develop some loss of power issues. I could only go so fast; occasionally the engine felt like it had lost power for a moment; and it felt like I was feeling the throttle to keep the engine running at times. On the return journey we broke down a couple of times, but it seemed to start again after a short rest. Eventually we had to admit defeat and call the AA. I had noticed the engine bay was sprayed with engine oil but could not identify the source. The AA patrolman put his finger on the problem very quickly, and quite literally. The fuel pump was shot. The actuator is a rocker arm, driven by a push rod from the camshaft on one side and the other side pressing on the pump diaphragm. The rocker had seized to the pivot pin and, as a result, it had then worn the hole it fits in, thus creating the oil leak and disabling the pump’s efficiency. I replaced the pump, with new gaskets, at home, by removing the distributor cap; then the distributor (having marked the position before hand) – using a 13mm socket and a short extension bar for the distributor; a flat blade screwdriver for the fuel hoses on the pump and a 13mm ring spanner for fuel pump to engine block. I drove around for a few short journeys, and everything seemed fine. The next “trip” was to “The Magic Teapot Festival” near Shepton Mallet. We did not make it. On the M5 I felt the engine die and instinctively knew it was bad. This time neither the AA patrol nor I had any real idea what was wrong. I thought the engine felt a bit hot, but I have no temperature gauge. I was afraid I might have burnt out the valves. The engine has not been converted for unleaded fuel, and I run with Reddex Lead Replacement. At home I tried everything I thought I could do. Then I tested the compression on the engine. Compression on number 2 cylinder seemed very low and number 4 had no compression. I was now seriously contemplating a replacement engine. A couple of days passed and in a last moment of desperation I removed the rocker box covers and checked the valve clearances. None had any clearance at all. All the gaps had closed leaving valves permanently open. So, I reset the valve clearances and the engine was good to go. But why did all the gaps close? Of course, they are likely to close when the engine gets hot, but they should reopen as it cools. Jim, my neighbour then introduced me to a factor called valve recession. This is where the valves recede into the valve seats in the engine head because metal between the valve and head is lost. This has the effect of lessening the valve clearance as the valve stem moves closer to the tappet. It usually happens because of valve edges and seats burning due to overheating. Jim’s theory is that when the fuel pump failed, I was driving according to what the fuel pump would deliver. As I felt for the optimum throttle position, I was effectively running the fastest I could, but with a very lean mix of fuel and air. It was this lean mix that created overheating and started the damage to the valves. I think that ultimately, I will have to take the heads off and inspect the situation. At present it seems OK on short journeys. The important point is that I have no other rational explanation why all my valve clearances closed as they did!

Inspect a Gadget – Temperature dipstick

By simply replacing your original dipstick with this Hot Oil Sensor and attaching the 18″ wire (included with the kit) to the oil pressure switch, you immediately begin to monitor your engine’s oil temperature. The oil pressure light at the bottom of your speedometer now serves two functions. Whilst continuing to monitor your oil pressure, it now provides the data from the Hot Oil Sensor as well. If your engine oil reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit (107 degrees Celsius) the light will begin to flicker, indicating that you are approaching an unsafe operating temperature. Simply reduce your speed and the light will typically stop flickering, indicating that your oil temperature has fallen to a safe operating temperature once again. If your oil temperature continues to rise to 235 degrees Fahrenheit (113 degrees Celsius) the light will remain on solid. This is the temperature at which you should pull over, in order to investigate the issue.

The Hot Oil Sensor was created by Harold Brown in the late 1960s and remains virtually unchanged since the first one was offered for sale, over 50 years ago. Works in all air-cooled engines and is available from main stockists – and members, don’t forget to get your club discount!

Inspect a Gadget – Ridge monkey

Steve Tatner has another gadget called a Ridge Monkey, to go with his Frontier stove from last issue. He writes:

Michelle discovered these a few years back and have taken them with us ever since. They were originally designed for anglers, cooking while fishing by the riverbank.

They have removable magnetic handles which hold the top and bottom of the two pans together.

They are great for when cooking in the van, for instance when frying burgers, you have no need to try and flip the burger, just turn the pan over, its enclosed which stops oil and fat spitting everywhere inside your bus. The medium sized pan also has compartments which is very useful. They are dead easy to clean.

The Ridge Monkey range includes a toaster, thermos mug and water bottles with cooking pans complete with utensils starting at £20.

Member’s Motor – Thomas Feeney – Libertine – Part 1

In about 1988, my wife Susan and I moved from the Midlands to Devon. At that time, we had travelled to Devon and Cornwall many times for camping trips or other short holidays. My brother and I, being familiar with Falmouth, as we were keen amateur divers at the time, borrowing our parents Bedford CF Campervan or driving down for a long weekend in a mini Clubman with our diving gear.

Somewhere near and around Falmouth we used to wild camp a little. Not much fun sharing sleeping space with smelly wetsuits back then, but it was still an adventure. No-one bothered us as we always parked out of the way and never ever left rubbish about, or blocked others enjoyment with our dive gear. Being students at the time, we were quite short of money, sometimes with only enough petrol money and always made our own food. Always praying that we would never break down or need to spend any money other than for our diving cylinders to be filled with air at the local dive shop in Penryn.

Falmouth is a popular spot for offshore diving. Whilst there, I always liked the VW campervans parked near us, jealous of other divers sat in the sliding door areas having a coffee and a mars bar after a dive, the doors wide open to take in the fantastic views across Falmouth bay – I wanted one !

It was now 1994, and I was researching VW campers. A splitscreen van was really desirable, but even then, the prices of them were rising beyond my reach. We had two children by then. Daughter Catherine (about 3yrs old) and son Patrick about one and a half. A camper would provide good family transport and holiday opportunities – this was not going to be our only transport, but a fun vehicle!

The search began for a Bay window van. Many could be found quite cheaply back then. Even so, their prices began to rise steadily. For those who could not afford a splitscreen, you bought a Bay window!

It is no exaggeration to say that I visited about twenty Baywindow buses. Being no stranger to owning older cars (I cut my teeth on restoring Standard 8 cars of the 1950’s, and always kept a fleet of cars running on a shoestring to get to and from work), so I knew roughly what to look for and what to avoid. Many were bodged vans, rotten bodywork and structural areas poorly welded.

Then I found one. A 1974 (later found to be an error and made in 1973. Important as you will find later). It was white and Sumatra green paintwork, a Devon pop-top conversion, two spotlights on the front bumper and the spare wheel carried on the front. Original Devon furniture within with tiny sink and cool box. The engine was a 1600 cc Vege unit and there was a tow bar. The roof went up, and two bunks came out on sturdy bars while the seating converted to a double bed space below. The original front seats had gone, and in their place were two small seats. Think they were from a Renault.

The van had already had six owners. The last being a young couple from Exmouth. They had been made redundant from work, and their van had to go. We bought it for £2,000.

Sounds a small amount now, but even then this was the best van I had seen and most original. My wife and I paid the money and drove it away with the former owners in tears. Before we left, they made us promise to offer it to them first if ever we were to sell it in the future. They were not to know that we still own it today in 2022, with no intention of selling just yet. We simply have too many great memories in the van, and places to which we have travelled.

We later found that our ‘new’ van was converted to a ‘Devon’ at the works in Sidmouth, just nine miles from where we live in Honiton.

Why ‘Libertine’ as a name for the van? Well, even before there was a Band called ‘The Libertines’, we were travelling around the Republic of Ireland. We met an elderly lady who, when talking of our travels in the van, said “Oh, you’re Libertines then?” The name stuck.

When first taking ownership, we decided that we would pack the van with our young children and head off into the unknown. The plan was simple. Head off from Devon up one side of the country and get as far as we can go with two small children, a simple map book and a bit of petrol money. No mobile phones, Internet bookings and satnavs back then!

Our adventures took us up to Lake Windemere, onward through to Scotland. Beautiful Oban and Fort William. Occasionally wild camping for the adventure of it, but really because we had no money for camp sites. One night we camped in a field, and much noise was coming from the fields behind where we were camped. Small huts occupied the hillside. We later found that this was a film set village for ‘Rob Roy’ with Liam Neeson. The noise was from the end of filming party.

We even got to attend the Edinburgh Festival by accident more than design. Our journeys took us south again, then home. In all that time (two weeks) I am not aware of the van letting us down. It rained almost constantly, only stopping when we did. Then blue sky, see the sights and back into the van for more rain to fall. We were all so wet once, and all our dry clothes used up we had to find a laundrette to dry some.

The van had proved itself, the kids enjoyed themselves and it was a great first adventure. In fact, our children (now 31 and 29) have campers of their own and love wild camping – so something has rubbed off!

To be continued…

Thomas Feeney

Inspect a Gadget – Frontier stove

Steve and Michelle Tatner were at the AGM, BBQ Club Camp (ABC) in Banbury in May 2022 and we spotted their stove being used in the coolness of the evening. We had never seen one – Steve advised us:

We first saw these little frontier stoves when camping a few years back with our son Kyle and his wife Annabelle, when they produced one from their van and proceeded to cook an excellent meal.

They are brilliant for wild camping when there is no electricity to be had and plenty of dry wood and branches around. They pack down really well, with the chimney section being able to fit easily inside the stove after use.

Made for countries with people who have limited access to cooking facilities they have grown popular with the outdoor types in other parts of the world.

They seem to be more acceptable with certain campsites that do not really like BBQs, as they are off the ground and contained, although you may find that the site you are staying at may want you to buy the wood from them.

There are several attachments that you can buy, like the water heater we have on our photo, very useful for tea or washing up water

We are very pleased with ours which gets used on a regular basis.

The frontier stove is around £200 with the water heater an optional extra around £100. Similar products are available at lower prices from major stockists online.

Member’s Motor – Andrew Snowden

For this Member’s Motor, we look at Andrew Snowden’s ’71 Early Bay and his quest to give her a name.

What’s in a name?

As I write this, our van has been in our ownership for exactly ten years.

She is ‘the van’. We have never found another name that suits her – and she definitely is a ‘her’ – despite trying a number of names over the years.

We initially tried ‘Sydney’/’Cyd’ and then ‘Adelaide’ in recognition of the van’s roots. She is a ‘71 Australian Early Bay. But neither name stuck. ‘Sheila’ certainly didn’t fit. ‘Bluey’ didn’t work despite her colour.

We tried ‘Roxy’ for a while, as a homage to Rocinante, the horse ridden by Don Quixote as he roamed across Spain in the Middle Ages, madly trying to hold on to a chivalric world that was being overtaken by modernity. A bit like me, or any classic VW driver, I thought! But the name ‘Roxy’ didn’t catch on.

More recently, we tried ‘Scooby’ to reflect the new heart in our van – a two litre Subaru engine. That didn’t stick. An unkind friend now refers to her as the ‘Sub-dub’, a lesser being in his view. But, understandably, not our name for her.

In the end, says Jane, my patient wife, if the van had a name, she’d have let us know by now. So the van remains ‘the van’. And over the last ten years ‘the van’ has taken us across Spain, to France on numerous occasions, and to many festivals and campsites across the UK.

In the early years of ownership, she wasn’t a reliable traveller, to say the least, and we became adept at keeping calm when she broke down badly, enjoying a glass of wine once she was on a low-loader and talking about how we were saving on petrol costs and getting to our destination far quicker!

The scariest moment was in Spain, coming down the long descent from Puerto de Somosierra, when the brakes started making a terrible noise that even turning up the stereo didn’t hide! We nursed the van to the nearest campsite and decided to take advantage of our breakdown insurance. The next day a mechanic checked out the braking system, used my WD40 and mallet, and suggested that we just take it easy for the rest of our trip and use the brakes more sparingly on steep descents. At least I hoped that’s what he said! He couldn’t speak any English and couldn’t understand our basic Spanish. He probably said, ‘it’s a death trap and I’ll report you to the police if you try to leave the campsite’! But we had no further problems.

These days, after much fettling and a great new engine, she’s an absolute joy which can be relied on to get us to our destination and, more importantly, get us home again. The last pre-lockdown French trip covered 2000 miles, taking in Classic Le Mans and the Cahors Jazz and Blues Festival without a hiccup. This year, we have toured North Yorkshire and Cornwall without a hitch. Not bad for a 50 year old vehicle.

I’m not sure why she is a ‘she’. The colour? Her mannerisms? It’s a strange thing given that our previous Bay Westie was, within minutes of ownership, a ‘he’ and within hours named ‘Greg’. In a recent fit of nostalgia, I googled Greg’s registration number – PPH 138L – to see what had become of him. I came across an old request on Volkszone from more recent owners of ‘Bertha’ (Bertha??) who had just had her restored and were searching for her previous history! If there are any magazine readers who know of Bertha (aka Greg), we had her/him from 1999 until 2005. Given the registration number, I can’t understand why we and subsequent owners didn’t name the campervan ‘Phil’ or, if she really is a female, ‘Phyllis’. Strange things, campervan names.

I guess a name gives a van greater personality or individuality or even humanity. But there are limits. In the late 90s, we were looking for a late bay in our price range and one seller invited us to view ‘Poppy’ which was parked in his back garden. ‘Please call out to her as you go past the garage’, he said. ‘Poppy doesn’t like people sneaking up on her’! Giving a van a name is one thing. It may even have a personality. Giving it psychological issues is a step too far. In my view.

OK, our van may not have a name. But at least she has no hang-ups! And she’s given us 10 years of great enjoyment.

Ask The Mechanic – Sticky throttle pedals

This edition we focus on sticky throttle pedals, courtesy of club member John “Undie” Underwood and his late bay “LottyAnne”. If you have a technical way forward with your vehicle, email editor@vwt2oc.co.uk for inclusion in a future post.

Since many of you have probably had the pain before me, let me see if what I have done helps you out. At first, I thought that it was the throttle cable catching through the tinware after my last one snapped, no not this time! Next, as Phil mentioned it could be the nuts on the carb linkage catching the tinware or shroud housing? Not this either! The only place now was at the front! First, I took off the pedal cover underneath, and checked the end plate had no muck or grime, then took the cover off the link arm in the driver’s footwell and checked all here, even the spring on the back of the pedal. Pushing down on the pedal, I noticed the two side plates that connect the pedal to the link arm seemed to be rubbing.

Checking the comments from my post, Nick Gillott suggested I try Buttysbits. The resulting conflab with owner Simon came up with the only (at the moment!) possible solution, which was to replace these plates with new stainless-steel ones, and he would also throw in a newly manufactured pedal link arm end plate. If I gave him a mention in our group! The new bits arrived and without too much technical know-how, I replaced the parts in question.

As you can see, no need to undo any of the cables at the engine end, just release the cable from the end plate and attach new then attach to the link arm. Straight away I noticed that the accelerator pedal is now in a more upright position! First couple of depressions on the pedal instantly gave me a smoother response. Happy days! BUT as a note, I will say this new pedal height, apart from feeling like my old Beetle throttle pedal, gives me a more responsive acceleration, but tick over is slightly higher, thus the need to adjust the end plate stopper down to slow the tick over, again without the need to adjust the cable at the engine end. The new plate has been manufactured to a slightly different angle to the original ones, hence higher it the pedal height.

Notice the new angle of those link plates to those in the first photo. I have been running this now for over a week and, touch wood, I have had no sticky pedal or any other issues, I recommend this product for others experiencing this issue as along with other products from BUTTYSBITS.

Ask The Mechanic – Alternator swap

This issue we look at the Alternator. This gadget uses some of the energy from the engine to make electricity to charge the battery as the engine is running and provide enough power to run the stereo, headlights, ignition and anything else electrical that you need.

In theory, the output from the alternator should be around 14.4 volts – putting a voltmeter on an earth point and the alternator output with the engine NOT running will show you the battery voltage. Once the engine is running, the output is the alternator output which is also about the voltage that you will get once the battery is fully charged.

If you measure the alternator output with the engine running and you are not getting 14.0 to 14.5 volts then you are not doing yourself any favours – higher will risk overcharging the battery, lower and you are not charging the battery sufficiently. If you additionally run a split charge system then your leisure battery is also not getting a full charge.

This article is for a Type 1 upright engine and a 50 amp alternator, however the principle remains the same.

Step 1 – Disconnect all batteries, I favour removing the earth connections first. Now you can safely work on the electrics. Then undo the big bolt on the alternator then carefully screwdriver / prize the pulley towards you, counting how many shim washers are on each side of it. Once the pulley half is off, hopefully you will find the woodruff key that makes the pulley turn the alternator. Save that for when you lose the new one!

Step 2 – If you have the original oil bath air filter, remove that by disconnecting the air hose at the top of the carburettor and unfastening the clips holding the filter to its tray. If you have non-standard air filter or other items limiting access, now is a good time to remove these.

Step 3 – Remove the carburettor/s if in the way as well. For this article, we have a standard Solex PICT3 which comes off with just 2 bolts at the base, the throttle cable (one bolt) and the air pipe.

Step 4 – Undo the bolts securing the alternator stand to the top of the engine. There are 4 of them, the front 2 are easily accessible, the rear 2 are a little more tricky. With the carb out of the way and a wobble bar on a racket, it just takes a little fiddling. A magnet can be handy to retrieve errant bolts! I also recommend putting a cloth or similar across the work area to catch nuts and bolts rather than them dropping on the ground or grass below. Also undo the bolt on the right hand side of the alternator that secures the metal strap. The strap keeps the alternator on its stand and is a very key component – if it is loose, you can create major cooling issues! You do not need to remove the strap just get it undone.

Step 5 – There is a plate at the back of the alternator flush with the main air housing / dog house fan cover. There are 4 bolts holding this in roughly north east, south east, south west and north west. The top 2 are accessible for a socket. The bottom 2 need a spanner and a good deal of patience – you may not get them all the way out depending on your manifold. Do not worry!

Once you get to this stage the alternator is now loose and you can move it somewhat. We got to this stage and really struggled and cursed. One call to the amazing Stuart at Sussex Air Cooled and he gave us the top tip that gave us our “Yee har” moment.

Step 6 – on either side of the main air box you will find a bolt downwards. Undo both of those so that the air box moves. Now being careful of the oil cooler behind the air box on the left side, tilt the whole air box backwards – you can push quite hard. Then lift the alternator upwards and rearwards and the 2 inches behind the black plate has a big fan attached. With some pushing, wiggling and a liberal amount of talking nicely, the fan will pass far enough to clear the hole and lift up and out.

As you can see from the picture, we had removed the carburettor and put a rag over to stop anything getting in. We also removed the distributor cap just in case of damage – no other reason.

Now at your bench, the bolt on the far end of the alternator spindle need removing. Hold the spindle in the vice and remove – you may need an impact tool or a lot of brute force. Again, once removing the bolt, watch out for losing the woodruff key. Ours is somewhere on the floor in a workshop in Pevensey Bay!

Reassembly is the reverse of the above process. For the woodruff key installation, you may find that Locktite is your friend to hold it in place on the spindle before offering up the next piece.

Torque the bolts up per the manual and ensure that as you turn the new alternator’s outer pulley half that you are turning the pulley to keep the fan belt from being trapped. The tighter you go, the more slack will come off the fan belt. Do not over tighten though.

If you removed the carburettor, now might be a good time to change the base gasket as well as you are there.

Test that the fan belt is moving as expected, because a fan belt that is not moving means no cooling.

Ask The Mechanic – A Guide to AGM batteries

The Mechanic – A Guide to AGM Batteries

This guide to AGM batteries has been supplied by one of the Club’s generous supporters, Alpha Batteries.

Don’t forget that you can get a 5% discount on an order using code “motorhomer5” on their website www.alpha-batteries.co.uk

What Does AGM Mean?

AGM stands for Absorbent Glass Matt. AGM batteries are still fundamentally lead acid batteries, but the electrolyte (acid) is soaked on absorbent fibreglass mats between the lead plates inside, rather than traditional liquid acid. You will also notice that AGM batteries are rated over three capacity discharge times C10, C20 & C100. This relates to the power available in the battery over 10 hours, 20 hours and 100 hours. Designed for multi-application use, the power available will very much depend on how quickly you discharge the battery. From this common base AGM batteries come in three different forms:

AGM Type 1 – European

These batteries are used in multi-application environments such as modern stop-start vehicles and deep cycle applications. Great for starting engines and off grid use with a typical cycle life of around 300 – 350 cycles. It’s worth pointing out that ‘life cycles’ don’t mean the battery expires and needs replacing, rather it refers to the optimum power of the battery life. AGM 1 batteries are limited in size but are popular for the low height fitment demands in Campervans, Caravans and Motorhomes.

AGM Type 2 – Eastern

AGM 2 batteries are the more cyclic type with a typical max cycle life of between 500 – 700 cycles. They are generally recommended for regular off grid use as they have a higher cyclic ability to discharge and recharge over a long term period. In addition, they are less prone to sulfation and charge much more quickly than traditional batteries – if you charge them correctly, more on that later!

Lead Carbon AGM

By adding carbon graphene to the traditional AGM Type 2 battery you get Lead Carbon AGM. This adds further improvements to charging times and a typical cycle life of 1200 – 2000 cycles depending on the model. Lead Carbon AGM are becoming more and more popular and are often the last step along the AGM range before looking into Lithium based solutions.

Charging AGM Batteries

Despite what you may have been told, all 12v batteries are not the same! Wet Lead Acid, AGM, Carbon AGM and GEL batteries all charge and behave differently. To get the full benefits from an AGM battery it takes a little bit of research and time to check your existing charging method each step of the way.

If you take a look at the datasheets and technical specifications for AGM batteries on our website, you will see that we publish specific charge settings and this ultimately centres around voltage. AGM batteries are designed to require 14.6v – 14.8v when performing a full charge from a state of discharge, whereas standard lead acid batteries need 13.8v – 14.4v, hence this is what most onboard chargers are designed to deliver – not the 14.6v – 14.8v that AGM requires.

Let’s go into a little more detail and break-down the most common charging options on Campervans, Motorhomes, Caravans and Boats and point out what you need to look for:

Mains Chargers

Onboard you will, in most cases, have a mains powered battery charger / power management system. These are designed to be used when you have access to mains power to replenish the state of charge in your batteries or maintain them when not in use. Given that these chargers are generally the main and best method of charging, you need to make sure that you know what it can and can’t do when it comes to charging AGM.

You’ll need to check the make and mode of your onboard charger – if you have the owner’s manual check it as it should tell you in there – you are looking for specific charge programmes for different 12v battery technologies. If it says nothing and the charger has no selectable charge options, then you can assume it is designed for traditional wet lead acid batteries not AGM.

Furthermore, if your manual states ‘may be suitable with AGM check with your battery supplier’ and has a max charge voltage of 14.4v then this isn’t suitable for AGM either. We are aware that most Sargent onboard chargers and PSU’s state this – please take our advice, they are not suitable for AGM in the long term. Good quality modern onboard chargers have selectable charge profiles that support AGM and it’s important to check this first before investing in quality AGM batteries as battery warranties do not cover incorrect charging profiles.

My charger doesn’t support AGM but I want the benefits from AGM technology. What can I do?

All isn’t lost here. You can still use the onboard charger but you will need to supplement the undercharge from the non-AGM charger with a secondary mains charger at least once a month, as your non-AGM charger will only recharge the battery to around 85% and this will cause a memory effect in the battery reducing its life. The cost to replace the onboard power system for an AGM one will be costly, so using a secondary charger is more cost effective and will prolong the life of the AGM battery by getting the battery up to the all important 14.6v – 14.8v it needs.

Secondary chargers are great, you can use them anywhere when you have access to mains power and are a sure fire way to ensure your battery is getting the correct charge it needs. We recommend Victron Energy smart chargers which have dedicated charge profiles for AGM batteries – they are fully automatic and do everything that the battery needs. The size you will require depends on the size of your battery bank but Victron offer a range of solutions such as 7A, 10A, 15A.

Alternator Charging / Split Charging

Similar rules apply to split charging AGM batteries and standard alternator split charging by common durite systems are not optimised for AGM – they simply divide the preset wet lead acid starter battery voltage and apply it to the secondary leisure battery or bank. Again, like mains chargers this will be a typical voltage of around 13.8v – 14.4v and over time this will cause under charge to the AGM battery.

We are big advocates of battery to battery chargers also known as DC/DC chargers when it comes to split charging AGM batteries as they have specific AGM charge profiles and are simple to fit. Once programmed for AGM it takes the standard alternator charge voltage from the starter battery and converts the settings to suit an AGM battery ensuring a true and even charge. Some even come with solar charge controllers built in and can act as a single charging hub for your system – effectively acting as a wild camping mains charger when you have no mains power! Some great examples here are the Ring RSCS30 and Victron Orion.

Similarly as with mains charging, if your system doesn’t support AGM then it’s not the end of the world, you can use your existing set up, just make sure you compensate for the undercharging via an AGM optimised mains charger or solar charger if you have enough watts.

Solar Charging

Solar has become an ever popular method of charging batteries though we would never advise relying on solar alone as your main charge method, though they do offer benefits when used for maintenance or top charging. AGM batteries work well with solar and are widely used on solar systems. Most if not all solar charge controllers support AGM however the terminology varies when it comes to solar controllers and they may refer to AGM as ‘sealed’ – always check your manual and ensure that the AGM or sealed charge profile gets up to that magic 14.6v – 14.8v parameter.

Something to note – we have seen instances were charge controllers on AGM settings utilise whats known as equalisation mode. We would advise removing this setting on solar charge programmes as it can over charge the battery at more than 15v! Not good. Solar charging can be utilised to compensate for undercharging from your other, non-AGM optimised, methods of charging. If your standard split replay or mains charger is designed for wet lead acid up to 14.4v then you can let your solar panel get the AGM battery up to the 14.6v – 14.8v it needs.

Maintaining AGM Batteries

As with all batteries correct maintenance is important – particularly if it’s unlikely to be used for an extended period of time. With that in mind there are a few core points to follow:

Ensure the battery is fully charged before being left. A fully charged AGM battery should read 13.00v or above. Ideally you need to ensure the final charge is done via an AGM optimised charging profile.

Never leave a battery on permanent charge (including trickle!) – despite having no free flowing acid inside, long term charging will cause the battery to dry out. Once fully charged and stored just ensure you charge the battery once a month overnight instead.

Try to keep your max discharge level to 50% – this is 12.1v on AGM batteries – as our cycle life data is based on a 50% discharge level. You can technically take AGM batteries lower than that, but the cycle life will reduce accordingly. The opposite is also true – discharging above 50% will increase the cycle life.

Note: Remember, the cycle life is a guide on the optimum life span of the battery – it doesn’t mean the battery will pack up and stop working – but you will notice considerably less running time once the cycle life has been achieved. Battery warranty does not cover loss of capacity as this is subjective to the usage, the frequency the battery is under and whether it’s been correctly charged.

If you are looking for true deep cycle batteries designed for regular discharge and recharge then AGM products can offer all the benefits you require. No topping up with water, non-spill, quicker charging and long life. If you can invest some time in getting your charging right, then you will see much better performance over traditional wet lead acid types – something we have first hand experience of over many years – low return rates and minimal warranty issues speak volumes for AGM batteries.

Do you have an interesting fix or technical topic that you think members will find interesting? If so, let us know and we will share it with the club. Please email us at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk

Eric the Viking – a restoration in many parts – August 2022

Spend since last report: £160. Total hours labour since last report: 25.5

In February 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 21 hours on Eric. In March 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 15 hours on Eric. Then I retired and had no time to get in the garage again until August! They say that you wonder how on earth you managed to find time to work and for sure, I am keeping busy. From April to July, my first four months of retirement included 36 nights away in Poppy, my wife Lorna’s 1972 Crossover, including club camps at Cheddar, Great Bourton, Odiham and RAF Odiham! I also reupholstered 2 sofas, built a large timber deck for a friend, a car port, and numerous other projects.

Finally in August, I felt that I had enough items complete to venture back into the garage to see Eric. For anyone new, forgetful or just venturing into the magazine – I bought Eric in August 2015 as a blind purchase on eBay, he had been rotting outside for many years and was in a terrible state. The previous ten years of MOTs were a litany of corrosion, underseal, advisories and decay, spend on him was minimal and the mileage shows he did not get used. I am now at 862 man-hours of labour on Eric. Yes, 862. The project plan lists another 300 hours to go and total outlay excluding my labour is projected to be £17,000, just don’t tell my wife!

The first job after time away from his restoration was also the reason for not getting back to it – the scary piece of chopping the bulkheads from behind the seats. Given that some Bay window vehicles have no bulkheads, I was happy to do this from a strength perspective as I was putting in further metal to brace the B posts. Out they came! Then some 20mm box section steel was cut up and welded to make a rectangular back rest for a bench seat going the full width of the van. Then I repeated it to make a rectangular seat base for the bench seat. The bench seat is inclined very slightly to match the original seats and is mounted to the floor on welded brackets. These brackets effectively make hinges that are about 6 inches from the front of the seat mounted on the tubs approximately where the original seats were mounted.

“14 Eric 01” caption is “Two bulkheads”

“14 Eric 02” caption is “No bulkheads”

“14 Eric 03” caption is “Bench seat frame”

“14 Eric 04” caption is “Cardboard back rests to assist the arm placement”

“14 Eric 05” captions is “Serpentines, coils and outer in place”

But why go to that length? The base is hinged, and I then made some blocks to go at the rear of the base. This makes the base inclined slightly the opposite way. Then I made “arms” for the back rest and after much mocking up with corrugated cardboard, the offside and nearside arms and their brackets were fabricated from 2mm steel plate. These arms support the back of the seat allowing you to drive in comfort. Once you get to your destination, the arms can be repositioned allowing the seat back to face the opposite direction. With the base also inclined in the opposite direction, Eric should end up with a sofa facing backwards. That cannot quite be finished yet as the back rest height is determined by the height of the seat base. Following the standard seat design, I welded some coil springs to the base frame down the sides of driver and passenger. Then I welded some serpentine zig zag springs front to back in between them. These sit on little bits of serpentine spring blow torched to bend to the right height. This now looks very like the original seat, and I added a steel string of 3mm diameter all around the outside to help the fabric sit correctly. Two front seats with metal as per the original for long distance comfort. Hopefully.

Next up, I need to add serpentine springs to the back rests for driver and passenger per the original design and work out exactly where the back rest will sit, then attach it to the arm.

Malcolm and Val joined us for my birthday weekend and the demo of the seat and the slide out pod (see previous issues) went well. As ever, Malcolm offered his thoughts and ideas which greatly helped refine the rough edges ready for implementation. Welding new steel is so much easier and more fun than blowing holes in rotten metal!