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Member’s Motor – Thomas Feeney – Libertine – Part 1

In about 1988, my wife Susan and I moved from the Midlands to Devon. At that time, we had travelled to Devon and Cornwall many times for camping trips or other short holidays. My brother and I, being familiar with Falmouth, as we were keen amateur divers at the time, borrowing our parents Bedford CF Campervan or driving down for a long weekend in a mini Clubman with our diving gear.

Somewhere near and around Falmouth we used to wild camp a little. Not much fun sharing sleeping space with smelly wetsuits back then, but it was still an adventure.  No-one bothered us as we always parked out of the way and never ever left rubbish about, or blocked others enjoyment with our dive gear. Being students at the time, we were quite short of money, sometimes with only enough petrol money and always made our own food.  Always praying that we would never break down or need to spend any money other than for our diving cylinders to be filled with air at the local dive shop in Penryn.

Falmouth is a popular spot for offshore diving. Whilst there, I always liked the VW campervans parked near us, jealous of other divers sat in the sliding door areas having a coffee and a mars bar after a dive, the doors wide open to take in the fantastic views across Falmouth bay – I wanted one !

It was now 1994, and I was researching VW campers. A splitscreen van was really desirable, but even then, the prices of them were rising beyond my reach.  We had two children by then. Daughter Catherine (about 3yrs old) and son Patrick about one and a half. A camper would provide good family transport and holiday opportunities – this was not going to be our only transport, but a fun vehicle!

The search began for a Bay window van.  Many could be found quite cheaply back then. Even so, their prices began to rise steadily.  For those who could not afford a splitscreen, you bought a Bay window!

It is no exaggeration to say that I visited about twenty Baywindow buses.  Being no stranger to owning older cars (I cut my teeth on restoring Standard 8 cars of the 1950’s, and always kept a fleet of cars running on a shoestring to get to and from work), so I knew roughly what to look for and what to avoid.  Many were bodged vans, rotten bodywork and structural areas poorly welded.

Then I found one. A 1974 (later found to be an error and made in 1973. Important as you will find later).  It was white and Sumatra green paintwork, a Devon pop-top conversion, two spotlights on the front bumper and the spare wheel carried on the front. Original Devon furniture within with tiny sink and cool box. The engine was a 1600 cc Vege unit and there was a tow bar.  The roof went up, and two bunks came out on sturdy bars while the seating converted to a double bed space below.  The original front seats had gone, and in their place were two small seats. Think they were from a Renault.

The van had already had six owners. The last being a young couple from Exmouth. They had been made redundant from work, and their van had to go.  We bought it for £2,000.

Sounds a small amount now, but even then this was the best van I had seen and most original.  My wife and I paid the money and drove it away with the former owners in tears. Before we left, they made us promise to offer it to them first if ever we were to sell it in the future.  They were not to know that we still own it today in 2022, with no intention of selling just yet. We simply have too many great memories in the van, and places to which we have travelled.

We later found that our ‘new’ van was converted to a ‘Devon’ at the works in Sidmouth, just nine miles from where we live in Honiton.

Why ‘Libertine’ as a name for the van?  Well, even before there was a Band called ‘The Libertines’, we were travelling around the Republic of Ireland.  We met an elderly lady who, when talking of our travels in the van, said “Oh, you’re Libertines then?”  The name stuck.

When first taking ownership, we decided that we would pack the van with our young children and head off into the unknown.  The plan was simple. Head off from Devon up one side of the country and get as far as we can go with two small children, a simple map book and a bit of petrol money.  No mobile phones, Internet bookings and satnavs back then!

Our adventures took us up to Lake Windemere, onward through to Scotland. Beautiful Oban and Fort William. Occasionally wild camping for the adventure of it, but really because we had no money for camp sites. One night we camped in a field, and much noise was coming from the fields behind where we were camped. Small huts occupied the hillside.  We later found that this was a film set village for ‘Rob Roy’ with Liam Neeson. The noise was from the end of filming party.

We even got to attend the Edinburgh Festival by accident more than design.  Our journeys took us south again, then home.  In all that time (two weeks) I am not aware of the van letting us down.  It rained almost constantly, only stopping when we did. Then blue sky, see the sights and back into the van for more rain to fall. We were all so wet once, and all our dry clothes used up we had to find a laundrette to dry some.

The van had proved itself, the kids enjoyed themselves and it was a great first adventure. In fact, our children (now 31 and 29) have campers of their own and love wild camping – so something has rubbed off!

To be continued…

Thomas Feeney

Cooking – Cowboy casserole

Club member Julie Barber shared a recipe that some of the members might like to try.

If you have not got a slow cooker, then just cook it in the oven at 180-200C for a few hours or until the potatoes are tender. If you don’t like any of the ingredients, then just swap them out with something that you do like! There is no set way of cooking this recipe, just pop in the main ingredients & get creative if you want to add other bits.

Prep time is about 10-15 minutes and it should serve 5-6 people (depending on how a big a portion you like).

INGREDIENTS

750g minced beef
6 medium red potatoes (or any potato of your choice)
1 medium onion
3 garlic gloves (I use the jars of lazy garlic and put in a tablespoon & a half)
1 can red kidney beans (I use Tesco Mixed Taco Beans in red sauce instead)
1 can of haricot beans (or a tin of baked beans or black-eyed beans if you prefer)
1 can diced tomatoes (with green chilli if you like spicy food)
Some water
1 & half tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons pepper
Grated cheese (any flavour you like here)

DIRECTIONS

1. Brown the mince & drain off the excess fat
2. Cube the potatoes & add to your slow cooker, then season with the salt & pepper
3. Chop the onion & add that with the garlic to the slow cooker
4. Add minced beef, beans & tomatoes & pour over the water
5. Give it a good stir
6. Cover and cook on low for 7-8 hours
7. Sprinkle grated cheese on the top for the last 15 minutes & continue to cook covered
8. Now you can do the taste bowl test if you are hungry, or…. let the whole thing cool down and pop into containers
9. Take it with you on your next overnight campervan campout & just warm up in a saucepan for 10-15 minutes

Inspect a Gadget – Frontier stove

Steve and Michelle Tatner were at the AGM, BBQ Club Camp (ABC) in Banbury in May 2022 and we spotted their stove being used in the coolness of the evening. We had never seen one – Steve advised us:

We first saw these little frontier stoves when camping a few years back with our son Kyle and his wife Annabelle, when they produced one from their van and proceeded to cook an excellent meal.

They are brilliant for wild camping when there is no electricity to be had and plenty of dry wood and branches around. They pack down really well, with the chimney section being able to fit easily inside the stove after use.

Made for countries with people who have limited access to cooking facilities they have grown popular with the outdoor types in other parts of the world.

They seem to be more acceptable with certain campsites that do not really like BBQs, as they are off the ground and contained, although you may find that the site you are staying at may want you to buy the wood from them.

There are several attachments that you can buy, like the water heater we have on our photo, very useful for tea or washing up water

We are very pleased with ours which gets used on a regular basis.

The frontier stove is around £200 with the water heater an optional extra around £100. Similar products are available at lower prices from major stockists online.

Ask The Mechanic – Sticky throttle pedals

This edition we focus on sticky throttle pedals, courtesy of club member John “Undie” Underwood and his late bay “LottyAnne”. If you have a technical way forward with your vehicle, email editor@vwt2oc.co.uk for inclusion in a future post.

Since many of you have probably had the pain before me, let me see if what I have done helps you out. At first, I thought that it was the throttle cable catching through the tinware after my last one snapped, no not this time! Next, as Phil mentioned it could be the nuts on the carb linkage catching the tinware or shroud housing? Not this either! The only place now was at the front! First, I took off the pedal cover underneath, and checked the end plate had no muck or grime, then took the cover off the link arm in the driver’s footwell and checked all here, even the spring on the back of the pedal. Pushing down on the pedal, I noticed the two side plates that connect the pedal to the link arm seemed to be rubbing.

Checking the comments from my post, Nick Gillott suggested I try Buttysbits. The resulting conflab with owner Simon came up with the only (at the moment!) possible solution, which was to replace these plates with new stainless-steel ones, and he would also throw in a newly manufactured pedal link arm end plate. If I gave him a mention in our group! The new bits arrived and without too much technical know-how, I replaced the parts in question.

As you can see, no need to undo any of the cables at the engine end, just release the cable from the end plate and attach new then attach to the link arm. Straight away I noticed that the accelerator pedal is now in a more upright position! First couple of depressions on the pedal instantly gave me a smoother response. Happy days! BUT as a note, I will say this new pedal height, apart from feeling like my old Beetle throttle pedal, gives me a more responsive acceleration, but tick over is slightly higher, thus the need to adjust the end plate stopper down to slow the tick over, again without the need to adjust the cable at the engine end. The new plate has been manufactured to a slightly different angle to the original ones, hence higher it the pedal height.

Notice the new angle of those link plates to those in the first photo. I have been running this now for over a week and, touch wood, I have had no sticky pedal or any other issues, I recommend this product for others experiencing this issue as along with other products from BUTTYSBITS.

Ask The Mechanic – Alternator swap

This issue we look at the Alternator. This gadget uses some of the energy from the engine to make electricity to charge the battery as the engine is running and provide enough power to run the stereo, headlights, ignition and anything else electrical that you need.

In theory, the output from the alternator should be around 14.4 volts – putting a voltmeter on an earth point and the alternator output with the engine NOT running will show you the battery voltage. Once the engine is running, the output is the alternator output which is also about the voltage that you will get once the battery is fully charged.

If you measure the alternator output with the engine running and you are not getting 14.0 to 14.5 volts then you are not doing yourself any favours – higher will risk overcharging the battery, lower and you are not charging the battery sufficiently. If you additionally run a split charge system then your leisure battery is also not getting a full charge.

This article is for a Type 1 upright engine and a 50 amp alternator, however the principle remains the same.

Step 1 – Disconnect all batteries, I favour removing the earth connections first. Now you can safely work on the electrics. Then undo the big bolt on the alternator then carefully screwdriver / prize the pulley towards you, counting how many shim washers are on each side of it. Once the pulley half is off, hopefully you will find the woodruff key that makes the pulley turn the alternator. Save that for when you lose the new one!

Step 2 – If you have the original oil bath air filter, remove that by disconnecting the air hose at the top of the carburettor and unfastening the clips holding the filter to its tray. If you have non-standard air filter or other items limiting access, now is a good time to remove these.

Step 3 – Remove the carburettor/s if in the way as well. For this article, we have a standard Solex PICT3 which comes off with just 2 bolts at the base, the throttle cable (one bolt) and the air pipe.

Step 4 – Undo the bolts securing the alternator stand to the top of the engine. There are 4 of them, the front 2 are easily accessible, the rear 2 are a little more tricky. With the carb out of the way and a wobble bar on a racket, it just takes a little fiddling. A magnet can be handy to retrieve errant bolts! I also recommend putting a cloth or similar across the work area to catch nuts and bolts rather than them dropping on the ground or grass below. Also undo the bolt on the right hand side of the alternator that secures the metal strap. The strap keeps the alternator on its stand and is a very key component – if it is loose, you can create major cooling issues! You do not need to remove the strap just get it undone.

Step 5 – There is a plate at the back of the alternator flush with the main air housing / dog house fan cover. There are 4 bolts holding this in roughly north east, south east, south west and north west. The top 2 are accessible for a socket. The bottom 2 need a spanner and a good deal of patience – you may not get them all the way out depending on your manifold. Do not worry!

Once you get to this stage the alternator is now loose and you can move it somewhat. We got to this stage and really struggled and cursed. One call to the amazing Stuart at Sussex Air Cooled and he gave us the top tip that gave us our “Yee har” moment.

Step 6 – on either side of the main air box you will find a bolt downwards. Undo both of those so that the air box moves. Now being careful of the oil cooler behind the air box on the left side, tilt the whole air box backwards – you can push quite hard. Then lift the alternator upwards and rearwards and the 2 inches behind the black plate has a big fan attached. With some pushing, wiggling and a liberal amount of talking nicely, the fan will pass far enough to clear the hole and lift up and out.

As you can see from the picture, we had removed the carburettor and put a rag over to stop anything getting in. We also removed the distributor cap just in case of damage – no other reason.

Now at your bench, the bolt on the far end of the alternator spindle need removing. Hold the spindle in the vice and remove – you may need an impact tool or a lot of brute force. Again, once removing the bolt, watch out for losing the woodruff key. Ours is somewhere on the floor in a workshop in Pevensey Bay!

Reassembly is the reverse of the above process. For the woodruff key installation, you may find that Locktite is your friend to hold it in place on the spindle before offering up the next piece.

Torque the bolts up per the manual and ensure that as you turn the new alternator’s outer pulley half that you are turning the pulley to keep the fan belt from being trapped. The tighter you go, the more slack will come off the fan belt. Do not over tighten though.

If you removed the carburettor, now might be a good time to change the base gasket as well as you are there.

Test that the fan belt is moving as expected, because a fan belt that is not moving means no cooling.

Eric the Viking – a restoration in many parts – August 2022

Spend since last report: £160. Total hours labour since last report: 25.5

In February 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 21 hours on Eric. In March 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 15 hours on Eric. Then I retired and had no time to get in the garage again until August! They say that you wonder how on earth you managed to find time to work and for sure, I am keeping busy. From April to July, my first four months of retirement included 36 nights away in Poppy, my wife Lorna’s 1972 Crossover, including club camps at Cheddar, Great Bourton, Odiham and RAF Odiham! I also reupholstered 2 sofas, built a large timber deck for a friend, a car port, and numerous other projects.

Finally in August, I felt that I had enough items complete to venture back into the garage to see Eric. For anyone new, forgetful or just venturing into the magazine – I bought Eric in August 2015 as a blind purchase on eBay, he had been rotting outside for many years and was in a terrible state. The previous ten years of MOTs were a litany of corrosion, underseal, advisories and decay, spend on him was minimal and the mileage shows he did not get used. I am now at 862 man-hours of labour on Eric. Yes, 862. The project plan lists another 300 hours to go and total outlay excluding my labour is projected to be £17,000, just don’t tell my wife!

The first job after time away from his restoration was also the reason for not getting back to it – the scary piece of chopping the bulkheads from behind the seats. Given that some Bay window vehicles have no bulkheads, I was happy to do this from a strength perspective as I was putting in further metal to brace the B posts. Out they came! Then some 20mm box section steel was cut up and welded to make a rectangular back rest for a bench seat going the full width of the van. Then I repeated it to make a rectangular seat base for the bench seat. The bench seat is inclined very slightly to match the original seats and is mounted to the floor on welded brackets. These brackets effectively make hinges that are about 6 inches from the front of the seat mounted on the tubs approximately where the original seats were mounted.

“14 Eric 01” caption is “Two bulkheads”

“14 Eric 02” caption is “No bulkheads”

“14 Eric 03” caption is “Bench seat frame”

“14 Eric 04” caption is “Cardboard back rests to assist the arm placement”

“14 Eric 05” captions is “Serpentines, coils and outer in place”

But why go to that length? The base is hinged, and I then made some blocks to go at the rear of the base. This makes the base inclined slightly the opposite way. Then I made “arms” for the back rest and after much mocking up with corrugated cardboard, the offside and nearside arms and their brackets were fabricated from 2mm steel plate. These arms support the back of the seat allowing you to drive in comfort. Once you get to your destination, the arms can be repositioned allowing the seat back to face the opposite direction. With the base also inclined in the opposite direction, Eric should end up with a sofa facing backwards. That cannot quite be finished yet as the back rest height is determined by the height of the seat base. Following the standard seat design, I welded some coil springs to the base frame down the sides of driver and passenger. Then I welded some serpentine zig zag springs front to back in between them. These sit on little bits of serpentine spring blow torched to bend to the right height. This now looks very like the original seat, and I added a steel string of 3mm diameter all around the outside to help the fabric sit correctly. Two front seats with metal as per the original for long distance comfort. Hopefully.

Next up, I need to add serpentine springs to the back rests for driver and passenger per the original design and work out exactly where the back rest will sit, then attach it to the arm.

Malcolm and Val joined us for my birthday weekend and the demo of the seat and the slide out pod (see previous issues) went well. As ever, Malcolm offered his thoughts and ideas which greatly helped refine the rough edges ready for implementation. Welding new steel is so much easier and more fun than blowing holes in rotten metal!

<Hannah to add “06 Nick sign off.tiff”>

VW birth certificate

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Here we advise members how to obtain their VW’s Birth Certificate and Data Sheet, which is a nice novelty item and can also prove to be useful if you are missing important information from your V5 etc.

The certificate and data sheet can be obtained directly from VW using their Classic Parts online shop.

The specific web address required is detailed below:

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/en_uk/service/certificate-data-sheets.html

when visiting the site, you will need to enter either you chassis number (VIN) or engine number. Seeing as many VWs have had engines changed over the years, it is probably better to enter your VIN.

There are three purchase options:

  • Birth Certificate – €99.95
  • Data Sheet –  €59.95
  • Bundle (Certificate and Data Sheet) –  €129.95

We would recommend the bundle option, it is nice to have additional data about your vehicle if it is available.

This is what VW have to say about their service:

Original and exclusive.

With your hand on your heart: do you know the exact production date of your car? Do you know which special equipment the first owner ordered? Or which upholstery material you need to look for to restore your classic car to its original state?

You can find the answers from us – in the form of the Volkswagen certificate and the Volkswagen data sheet, which we issue exclusively on behalf of the manufacturer. By the way, this is not only for classic cars and modern classics, but also for more recent models, which were first registered at least 15 years ago! 

Just like it was ex works, once upon a time.

On the basis of the chassis number or vehicle identification number (VIN), the original delivery condition of each Volkswagen model can be determined exactly – regardless of whether it was built in 1949, 1989 or 2007. For research purposes, we have access to millions of records from the archives of the Volkswagen Group. Information on almost every vehicle ever produced is stored there – on car master cards, punched cards, microfilms or, of course, in digital form.

This documentation forms the basis for our “detective work”: using old lists, historical brochures, sales programmes, colour sample cards or fabric samples, we decrypt the codes for the engine and transmission, original paint, upholstery or additional equipment.

As well a great deal of expertise, this, of course, requires some time. Usually, however, the period between ordering and the delivery of a Volkswagen certificate or data sheet is a maximum of six to eight weeks. You will receive then a document specially issued for you, which contains valuable information on the original condition of your classic.

The next club magazine is on its way

The next edition of the club magazine has been finished by our Editors and looks fantastic. It should be arriving through your door soon! If you are enjoying the club magazine and have a story about a trip, an upgrade, a restoration or just a tip, send a contribution to our Editor at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk.

Time for bed!

As the long season comes to an end and following on from last week’s winterizing, some owners may elect to cover their pride and joy with a cover.

Please. Pretty please. Pretty please with little chrome covers on. Don’t cover your expensive paint work with a tarpaulin that will get condensation inside it, press that moisture onto your bodywork and accelerate the attack on the paint and the metal underneath.

If you don’t have access to a garage or a car port that will keep most of the weather off, try to invest in a good breathable cover. Get the right one for your vehicle and make sure that the material is not flapping around, abrading where it touches.

Ideally park on hard ground that will not have standing water. Parking on grass at the bottom of the field will collect water underneath which will evaporate upwards into your van and its little cover. A breathable cover will let some or most of that collected moisture out but ideally you should remove the cover over winter every month to let things properly dry out and then put it all back to bed once more.

If possible, get a cover with straps that go under the vehicle from side to side, so that the wind cannot lift the cover off the vehicle. It is disheartening to get home from work in the dark and find your expensive van exposed to the elements and a wet cover wrapped across your hedge.

For those of you lucky enough to have a garage, a dust cover is optional but again, think about the possibility of trapped moisture pressing against the bodywork. Does a quick dusting or a nice spring time wash and wax give more benefit than the winter cover?

Yes, it is that time again, winter is very much heading our way. For anyone with a vehicle, VW or not (apparently other vehicles are available!), winter in the UK is the worst time for metal on the roads.

Some suggestions:

Inside

Water

If you have anything containing water, drain it all out. Water tanks, boilers, kettles. Don’t just empty the tank, drain the whole system including the pipes. Remember that water in pipes still expands when it freezes, not just in the tank. It also goes stale after a period of standing. If possible take the tank indoors to keep it above freezing and/or clean it thoroughly.

We use a mild Milton solution to thoroughly clean ours including the impeller that sits in our tank and its associated pipe and electric cable. Then we rinse everything and air dry it all. Other options are available too!

Power

Leisure batteries like ambient temperatures and extreme cold will reduce their operational life. Keep them above freezing by removing them and keeping them in the garage or similar. Remember to keep the electrical contacts in the van safely insulated if applicable.

Keep those batteries charged using a trickle charger that is fit for purpose, which will also prolong their life.

Gas

Butane or propane tanks and bottles should be removed from your vehicle and stored safely with their openings closed properly – don’t leave the regulator open relying on the gas tap on the cooker as these can fail. Now is a good time to weigh them against their empty counterparts to know when you need to change them!

Boring cleaning

Now that you have opened up your van, removed the relevant tanks and bottles, you can get all misty eyed and miss the peace and tranquility of your van by getting in there and cleaning it all. It gives you a great sense of personal achievement as well as going into the winter with a nicely clean kitchen area, the fridge has been bleached and rinsed, and if applicable the bathroom, the shower and maybe the hot tub are all clean. Leave internal doors slightly ajar to keep mould and mildew at bay.

Soft furnishings

If possible, remove curtains, bedding, that emergency woollen blanket from Granny and take them indoors for a good wash or airing.

Ingress

Don’t be tempted to leave doors open or windows more than cracked open. All sorts of miscreants can get in and eat your lovely interior.

Outside

If possible store your vehicle in a garage. If that is not possible, a car port will do a similar job. A breathable cover can be good but make sure it is listed as fully breathable otherwise moist air gets under the cover, rises when things warm up and the vehicle will get wet, holding that wet against the bodywork. Avoid a heavy cover for sure!

Tyres

Tyres degrade from extreme temperatures and long periods of standing still. Winter does that very well! Inspect the tyres, check the pressures and consider putting the van on axle stands if you are not using it for a very long time, taking the wheels into the garage or shed. It also makes theft more difficult!

Moving parts

Lubricate everything. Hinges, moving parts, sliders, mechanical parts. Check the oil level. Use the right lubricant for the part in question. It will pay dividends next year and will keep water away, which is good for the life of the part.

Boring cleaning

Again, give the outside of your vehicle a proper clean, ideally by hand. Dry fully including the fiddly bits inside doors and between panels. Give it all a good quality wax polish. This also keeps water away and prolongs the panels and parts. It also makes you happy as you pass over the cold season when you don’t want to be away.

Underneath

If you are an advocate of underseal and waxoil, get the old visible stuff removed and apply new underseal to dry clean parts. The jury seems out on the benefits of underseal against the downside of it trapping moisture but waxoil or similar applied hot into cavities must be better than not applying it?

Engine

Some texts state to start your engine once a month and run it on idle for 30 minutes. More than that is not necessary and I don’t touch our air cooled engine at all.

An oil change just before the winter alongside a fuel-storage additive in the fuel tank if you like that sort of thing.

Main battery

We leave the main battery connected and the solar panel bolted to the roof of a van in a car port for the leisure battery. If that was not the case, we would trickle charge the main battery once a month over the winter. Again, this just makes sure that you don’t degrade the battery and end up having to replace it all of the time.

Got to dash, I think my van might be snoring.