Our most popular event with around 100 club vehicles, our own club field, the marquee, the BBQ, Lorna James singing, kids looking after each other and the occasional glass of wine.
To get on the club field, you need to be an active member and book through http://www.busfest.org selecting the correct club and using the discount code. Sadly bookings for 2023 have closed some time ago, but we hope to see you in 2024!
A leisure battery allows you to use 12v appliances such as fridges, lighting and heaters etc whilst camping without running your main vehicle battery down, so you can still start the engine the next day!
There are several ways of keeping this leisure battery charged, the most popular is using a split charge system, this system charges your leisure battery and main battery whilst driving, using your engine’s alternator.
There are kits available online for split charge systems. Once again, Just Kampers sell these kits at reasonable prices and comes prewired for easy installation.
When installing a split charge system, before you start work, remove the earth (marked negative) lead from your main vehicle battery. Depending on your type of van, your leisure battery will need to be located in varying locations. The design of the Bay Window makes it ideal for a leisure battery install as there is a spare tray on the left hand side of the engine bay. So for this quick guide, we will use the bay window as an example.
From the spare battery tray on the left of the engine bay, where the leisure battery will be fitted or is already fitted, lay the pre-rewired wiring loom across the back of the Bus, routing from left to right.
A good place to locate the relay itself is on the left hand d-post inner structure. Hold it in position and mark the top locating hole. Drill this and mount the relay using a suitable self-tapping screw. The wiring loom for the rear lights runs along the top of the inner engine lid hinge panel, held in place with metal tabs. Carefully prise these open and locate the new section of loom within.
Alternatively, use cable ties to hold the new loom to the existing wiring.
Remove the positive lead from the main battery and secure the new power lead under the battery clamp nut.
There are just two wires on the split charge relay. The brown wire goes to earth (we utilised the existing tail light earth for this) and the red (positive) wire needs to go to a switched live. For this, we routed the cable under the engine bay tar board and piggy backed it to the switched live terminal on the ignition coil.
With the leisure battery in place, install the auxiliary fuse box loom under the battery clamp nut. Then locate the fuse box on the rear inner wheel tub.
Next, install the leisure battery earth lead. This must be bolted to a good earth point.
Finally, you don’t want your new battery sliding around, so we used a universal battery clamp to secure ours in place. Once installed, connect the positive leads on both batteries, then the two earths. All should now be up and running, just leaving you to wire any accessories forward from the new fuse box.
Our friends at Just Kampers have reduced the price of the excellent and regularly recommended Propex heater.
Make Heat While the Sun Shines (or tries to).
Save money on the Propex HS2000 heater unit at Just Kampers and install a new gas heater in your camper before the weather really takes a turn for the worse. The JK Team are offering £55 off their Propex HS2000 bundle kit (J19842), which gives you the super popular Propex heater as well as the gas fittings you’ll need to get it installed.
While they’d always recommend you get gas appliances like this installed by a registered professional, fitting a new heater is one of those jobs that’s better done in the summer, and you’ll be able to enjoy off-season trips in your toasty new camper!
Propex Heatsource HS2000 12V LPG Gas Heater with Fitting Kit
J19842
£518.78 – Save £57.68
Another brilliant weekend in Great Bourton, Oxfordshire with our great host David. Lots of fun, laughter and burgers!
Here are a selection of pictures.
Just a week away is the ABC, our annual AGM, BBQ and Club Camp – are you going?
Get together with members and hear what’s happening in your Club at our short AGM. The Barnstones site has served us really well over the last several years, and is located in Great Bourton, Banbury, Oxfordshire, OX17 1QU, just a couple of miles off the M40.
Scene of our earliest club BBQs, which are free for members, we’re very much looking forward to going back. We will be using a local hall to host the AGM part of proceedings, along with light refreshments. Just bring your membership card with you.
Price per night is £15 for a pitch (van with or without awning), but electric hook-up prices cannot be quoted at the moment, due to uncertainty in the market. I’ll share this information as soon as we have it, but please be reassured, we will be able to power the BBQ food storage safely 😊
I will be making all the bookings, just let me know your dates, how many adults, children and dogs, whether you need electric, and whether you’re bringing an awning. Places are limited so contact me soon to reserve your spot! Please do not book direct as there may be insufficient space on the rally field.
The site itself says, “Barnstones is a very attractive 4 star AA award winning site situated on the edge of the pretty village of Great Bourton. 3 miles from the historic town of Banbury, other attractions nearby are Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick Castle, Oxford, Blenheim Palace and the very beautiful Cotswolds area all within a 20 mile radius of the site. The site is very mature with beautiful landscaped grounds, full serviced pitches and hard standing pitches are available, all pitches have hook-ups provided, the high quality toilet block provides free showers, dishwashing facilities and a full laundry room. Wi-Fi and a children’s play area are available. A local pub serving very good food is 200 yards from the site.”
Read more on the web at https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/campsites/uk/oxfordshire/nr-banbury/barnstonescaravanandcampingsite/
Just back from a weekend away in Yorkshire at the fabulous steam railway. Here are some of the pictures from the club members having fun!
Just back from a weekend away in Herefordshire at a cider farm and vintage fair. Here are some photos from the club members!
Many people ask!
230V electric hook up allows you to use campsite
supplies to give you mains 230v sockets inside
your van, meaning you can use those everyday
appliances whilst on your travels.
The easiest way to tackle a 230V Mains Hook Up
in your van is using a kit that comes with all the
parts you need. These are readily available and
Just Kampers sell two great kits (don’t forget your
discount) that have either a surface mount socket
or flush mount socket.
The kit should contain:
• Inlet Socket (Flush or Surface Mount)
• Consumer Unit (25amp Draw)
• 2 x 13amp Sockets
• 2.5mm2 Cable (Socket to Consumer Unit)
• 3 Core Flex (Consumer Unit to Sockets)
The kit should be installed by a professional, unless
you are confident with wiring and we would still
suggest that the install is tested by a professional
following self installation.
Friday 16th to Sunday 18th June 2023
Father’s Day Weekend – Club Camp and Display at Embsay & Bolton Abbey Steam Railway
It’s an extra-special one – bring along your Dad, or Dads, or just join us anyway 😊 Ride on a steam train, take afternoon tea, and discover a new obsession! We already have several members signed up to join us at this exciting event, but there are still places, so get in touch to secure yours!
On the very edge of the Yorkshire Dales and within around 50 miles of the Lake District lies this wonderful piece of mechanical Victoriana.
The railway dates to 1888 and there is a mile and a half easy walk to the Priory, which is supposed to be rather gorgeous. We will camp at the station on the Friday and Saturday nights, the loos will be left open overnight, and daytime snacks will be available to purchase from the onsite café. I hope to be able to BBQ on the Saturday night but there are logistics to work around – more on that nearer the time. You are welcome to bring other generations of Fathers with you, there is a pub within a very short walk that offers accommodation – http://thecavendisharmsembsay.co.uk/. We are asking for a minimum £10 donation per van per night to go to help support this volunteer-led piece of history. If you would like to ride on the train and/or enjoy afternoon tea, please pre-book on their website.
www.embsayboltonabbeyrailway.org.uk
Prices seem reasonable – train rides are available from £13.50 for a one-hour adult journey, £20 with breakfast thrown in, or £29 if you include afternoon tea. There’s also a Rail and Sail option plus dining choices – see loads more on their web site!
Indicator and Wiper Switch Assemblies Removal and Repair
The first step is to remove the steering wheel
from the steering column. Before you start,
it’s worth straitening the steering wheel/front
wheels so that when the steering wheel goes
back on, you know where to line it up.
The steering wheel is fitted to a splined shaft
within the column and is fixed with a single
24mm nut.
To access the nut, the horn push in the centre
of the steering wheel has to be removed. The
horn push is usually made of plastic and is often
brittle, so prizing off with a screw driver or metal
scraper is not the best idea. I found that using
a finger nail was sufficient, working my way
round the horn push and lifting upwards (see
pic 1).
With the horn push removed, the 24mm nut
should be revealed and there will also me a
lead and crimp connected to a spade terminal.
Remove this crimp to disconnect the lead and
move to one side to create some space for a
spanner.
Using a 24mm ring spanner or socket and
ratchet (an open ended spanner can slip easily),
loosen the nut but do not remove at this point
(see pic 2).
Mark the position of the wheel in relation to the
shaft using chalk, pencil or paint pen to assist in
lining the wheel back up on fitment.
Now, with the nut still fitted, give the steering
wheel a tug upwards to free it from the splined
shaft. It should become loose but the fitted nut
will prevent you from smashing your face with
the steering wheel (believe me!).
With the wheel loose, remove the 24mm nut and
lift the steering wheel off too. This will expose
the indicator and wiper switch assemblies fitted
to the top of the column (see pic 3).
At this point, you want to remove the cap from
your windscreen washer bottle to depressurise
it (otherwise you will create a drinking fountain
later on!) if you have pressure in your tank,
you’re the exception
Now you can begin to remove the switch
assemblies. Undo and remove the 4 small
screws that hold switch assemblies inside the
steering column and keep them safe with the
24mm nut from earlier.
Now it’s time to disconnect the electrical
connectors from the switch assemblies. Around
halfway down the steering column, the plastic
shroud ends. Underneath this shroud is three
electrical connectors. The two nearest the
driver seat are the two plugs for the wiper and
indicator switches. Give these a gentle tug to
disconnect them and tuck them to one side,
they can’t be mixed up so don’t worry.
With the electrical connectors removed, you
can now begin to pull the switch assemblies up
and out of the steering column. Do this slowly
though as there are two pipes connected
to the back of the wiper switch assembly
for the windscreen washers. These can be
disconnected at this stage and should have
been depressurised earlier (see poic 4).
Now you should be able to remove the switch
assemblies, but be careful not to break the
plastic wiring sleeves as these tend to quite
brittle with age.
With the assemblies removed, I could now see
what had happened with my indictor lever,
the bottom part of the lever mechanism that
operates the switch had snapped ( see pic 5).
The indicator and wiper switch assemblies are
joined to form one piece but are easily split.
They are held together with four metal sleeves
and the two parts can be split easily using a
screw driver (see pic 6).
Once they are split, you can replace either the
indicator or wiper switch assembly (or both)
and fit the two back together using the four
metal sleeves.
Once back in one piece, fitment is the reverse
of the removal. The hardest part of the fitment
for me was locating the wiring plugs under the
plastic shrouding into the correct location to
push the connectors home. This picture helped
me to locate the plugs and they are shaped
in such a way that they can be guided into
position (see pic 7).
Once reconnected, I would recommend that
you test all of the functions of the switches
before refitting the screws and steering wheel,
in case you have to take it all apart again!
Don’t forget that you have marked the steering
wheel to line it up when you refit it too.
The last test should be the horn and don’t forget
to re-pressurise the washer bottle!
