Yes, it is that time again. Hurray! Finally, after the long winter in our non-mobile houses, we can get out our beloved vehicles.

Checklist

Hopefully you all followed the article Time for bed/ to help put your vehicle to bed for the winter. Now that spring is in the air and we are starting to think about getting out and communing in nature, this is a key time to get things ready.

Doors locks – there’s nothing more annoying than a failed lock. get it fixed now before the season really gets going. Door lock issues can be very straight forward but a simple lubrication can be key. Pun intended. A non residue lubricant is best to move the dirt away as WD40 can leave enough gunk to create issues. We favour silicon spray. A little into each lock.

Windscreen wipers – did they perish in the cold winter freezing them to the windscreen. Inspect and replace now.

Water – check the radiator if you have one. Ensure that the bottles that you emptied in the Autumn / fall have no mice, carefully hidden Christmas presents or mildew. Clean with a weak Milton solution if it is drinking water or food related.

Batteries – check the charge on each battery with a good meter. A flat battery can indicate an earth leak. A failed battery needs careful investigation.

Carburettor – Or equivalent. Check for good operation, no stuck flaps or other deterioration over winter. If you are a professional, this will be straight forward. If you are an amateur, a test drive very close to home will highlight problems! But only after the other checks.

Brakes – your vehicle should roll easily, otherwise this can indicate jammed brakes. Parking in gear for long periods of time can be better for your brake health than a jammed set of brakes. Check the brakes for operation. Check the brake fluid level. If it has been more than 5 years, change the brake fluid as it is hygroscopic and slurps up water incredibly quickly. Water is not a good fluid for applying the brake pads to the disks.

Seals – inspect all door seals for any signs of damage, water ingress or other problems and sort them out now. Glue any loose bits back down with the correct glue.

Windows – ensure that they all open and close fully. Or at least as fully as they did last year if applicable!

Ignition – Once you are feeling confident, get in to your pride and joy and turn on the ignition to number 2. Look at the lights on the dashboard. Check there ARE lights! Are they what you expect / are used to seeing? Have you got fuel (for those with a working fuel gauge)?

Crank it over – don’t expect it to start immediately but things should kick into life within a few seconds.

A little test drive on your driveway will allow you to test the brakes, maybe the steering and other important parts. Softly, softly.

Stay local, take your phone with you and warm clothing. Just in case!

Once you get home, assuming that you have a big smile on your face, make a list of snags, get indoors, put the kettle on and start planning for your summer.

Check out the events page and come and see us at a meeting soon!

With the summer holidays looming and
everybody planning their travels and holidays,
have you planned your maintenance and
checks of your VW in as much detail? It is
very important to keep your van maintained
properly, but with the hotter weather and
longer than usual journeys; even the most
well maintained engines can suffer problems,
such as perished or split fuel hoses. Something
such as a split fuel hose could mean really
bad news for classic (or even modern)
VW camper owners.
Every summer there are reports on social media
of at least one classic VW that has caught fire
and been lost. Although good maintenance
and preparation should prevent this, there is
always that small chance and a fire suppression
system will provide extra insurance against
losing your van to a fire.

Fire suppression systems are now readily
available and vary in function and cost.
There are manual systems that operate using a
lever and cable to activate the suppressor and
there are also automatic systems. Automatic
systems are preferential as they require no
input from the driver to activate.
Within the automatic suppressor range there
are two main systems that prove to be the
most popular.

The first one is a cylinder (much like a fire
extinguisher) that is mounted in the centre
of the engine bay over the engine and if a
fire occurs in the engine bay, the vial over the
nozzle melts, releasing a gas agent at 240 psi.
The nozzle is designed to ensure 360° dispersal,
meaning that the gas will completely fill the
engine bay. The gas is released at -19°C so will
cool down the engine bay helping to prevent
any re-ignition of petrol vapour. This system is a
small scale version of what is used within oil rigs.

The second automatic system is also a cylinder,
but rather than mounting the cylinder directly
over the engine, the cylinder is mounted
within the engine bay (usually) but out of the
way, (usually the left rear side of the engine
bay is most spacious). This system uses a linear
detection tubing which is installed throughout
the engine compartment. This tubing can not
only quickly and accurately detect a fire but
also extinguish it before it can damage adjacent
components. The tubing is connected to the
cylinder valve and charged with nitrogen or
compressed air. This pressure is utilised to hold
back the extinguishing powder in the cylinder.
Should a high temperature or fire occur, the
pressurised tubing will burst and the powder
will be deployed from the burst hole directly
onto the fire.
Both systems are fully automatic and come
with a full fitting kit.
Fitting is relatively simple and requires no
wiring or electrical input.
The first system with the 360° dispersal nozzle
can be purchased for approximately £60-
£100 and the second system that utilizes the
linear detection tubing can be purchased for
approximately £180-£250.
The design is personal choice and we would
not merit one over the other, but The Mechanic
has had experience of fitting the second system
and found it simple

With classic car vehicle theft on the rise classic car security systems are more important than ever.
The Mechanic has noticed some members asking some questions on the Club Facebook page about van security and what different people use, so has decided to cover some options for security to help members understand what products and services are available to keep your van as safe as possible.
Starting with the basics, your vans already has some built in security features from the factory that you should utilise and ensure are working effectively before even worrying about additional security measures.
Firstly check that all of the doors lock securely, including the tailgate or rear doors in later transporters. Full lock sets can be inexpensive and a doddle to fit, depending on the model. If the doors aren’t locking as expected, there is plenty of adjustability with the striker plates and latches, don’t be afraid to give it a go. All van windows, whether they are manual windup, electric windup, louver or sliding, should close fully and latch where possible. Anything short of this is an invite to an opportunistic thief.
All types of Transporter have a standard steering lock fitted which is activated by turning the steering wheel with the ignition key removed. This stops anyone from being able to turn the steering wheel and drive off without the ignition key. The ignition key and barrel is another standard security feature that should be present, older vehicles can be modified over the years to work in several ways depending on whether there have been problems in the past, but the ignition lock is something extremely basic that
you want to ensure is working.

Some other very basic things to consider are where you keep your van parked when not in use. Do you have a secure location such as a garage or a lockup? Do you use a driveway or park on the road? If you have a safer place available to you, use it. Now we have covered the basics, we can move on to additional security devices. There are various additional security devices available for vehicles and they can be mechanical or electrical and very affordable or expensive, depending on the product and the application.
A basic additional security device that many will have used at some point is the steering wheel lock/clamp. These are a mechanical device that fits to the steering wheel to prevent the wheel from being turned in the event of you vehicle being stolen. They vary heavily in application and price and the choice is a personal decision, but whatever you choose, a steering lock is a visual deterrent for potential thieves as well as a physical mechanical hindrance. I personally always use a steering lock, even if only leaving my van for a short period of time, it gives me peace of mind that it would take longer for someone to
steal my van with it fitted than it would without it, which should help to put off the opportunistic types. There are many different types of steering lock on the market, but “Stoplock” has been a well known name for years.

Another basic, internal fitting mechanical device is a pedal lock. These are not as common as steering locks as some people find them fiddly to fit and not as quick as simply fitting a steering lock. These are more common when leaving a van for a longer period of time and work by locking the three driving pedals together. These are more expensive than steering locks and obviously need to be tailored to the application.
There are several available on the market such as the “Safe-T Pedal” and “Clutch Claw” that we looked at in the last issue of Transporter Talk. These are less visual than a steering lock, but if someone gets into your van and sees one of these fitted, there’s a good chance they will decide to leave it or will need to make noise and spend time removing it in order to get your van easily.

That’s not all for internal mechanical locks as you can also buy devices that lock the gearstick to prevent any gear changes. On some VW models you can buy gear sticks and surrounds that have locks built in. Or you can find devices that lock the gearstick into position using a part of the interior, such as seats or steering wheels. Much like the steering wheel lock and pedal locks, these are a visual deterrent and will also slow down any thieves if they’re intent on taking your van.
Use of these mechanical devices may be time consuming, but can prove to be a very effective and wallet friendly means of adding security to your pride and joy. Another simple mechanical locking device is the
use of an external wheel clamp. If you use your van on a daily basis then this could prove to be an annoyance, but if you use the van on the odd occasion then using a wheel clamp is a cheap and effective means of additional security. There are various designs and styles of clamp available and they vary in price, but the main thing is that this extra security device is another problem that any would be thieves need to break through in order to get what they want.
With mechanical devices covered, we can now move on to the electronic advancements that can help to keep your van in your hands. Some more modern vehicles already have electronic devices fitted as standard, but those with older transporter models will be lacking in this area. Immobilisers are fitted to modern vehicles as standard and are fitted to prevent the engine of a vehicle from running unless the correct key or chip is present. Those who have ever owned a car that has an aftermarket immobiliser with
problems will tell you how effective they are! Immobiliser kits can be purchased and DIY fitted fairly cheaply these days and there are companies out there that offer fitting and after sales services too.
As well as immobilisers, alarms are also now fitted to most modern vehicles and these can now be added to older vehicles as an additional security measure. Alarms can be much more complicated than immobiliser kits as there are more areas for problems, such as doors and movement sensors.
It is highly recommended that alarms are fitted by a qualified alarm fitter and ensure that you get some kind of warranty too.
Another excellent and worthy purchase in the category of electronic security devices is a GPS tracker.
A GPS tracker is a location device that will track your vehicle if it’s taken without your permission. This is the best way of locating your vehicle quickly to have it recovered and so reducing the chance of damage or loss. There are several types of GPS Tracker on the market, some are standalone devices that are
completely user operated and some utilise a subscription service where a company will monitor the tracker and can offer different levels of service. One such GPS Tracker service is Skytag, which has been covered elsewhere in this issue and now offers VWT2OC member’s a discount on their tracker service.
Other methods of additional security could include kill switches or battery isolators, these are cheap to acquire and simple to fit for most. These are best used when leaving the vehicle for longer periods and can be operated with a key. One problem with this is that if you have a vehicle tracker fitted, the battery isolator will likely disable the tracker.
Some other different and interesting ideas include fitting an electronic fuel pump that has a hidden switch somewhere inside the van, no fuel, no running engine! Or you could go very extreme and remove the steering wheel from your vehicle for longer periods of storage and would be much easier on earlier transporter models.
Others have suggested removing the rotor arm from the distributor as this disables the engines ignition system, but again is probably best used for longer periods of storage. To aid with tracking, some also suggest fitting a number plate to the roof so that the vehicle can be identified from above in the event of it being stolen. Hopefully some of these hints are useful to members for helping to think about security options, but remember that the most important thing is to keep the basics working. Without these, any other additional security device loses effectiveness.