The next edition of the club magazine has been finished by our Editors and looks fantastic. It should be arriving through your door soon! If you are enjoying the club magazine and have a story about a trip, an upgrade, a restoration or just a tip, send a contribution to our Editor at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk.
Steve and Michelle Tatner were at the AGM, BBQ Club Camp (ABC) in Banbury in May 2022 and we spotted their stove being used in the coolness of the evening. We had never seen one – Steve advised us:
We first saw these little frontier stoves when camping a few years back with our son Kyle and his wife Annabelle, when they produced one from their van and proceeded to cook an excellent meal.
They are brilliant for wild camping when there is no electricity to be had and plenty of dry wood and branches around. They pack down really well, with the chimney section being able to fit easily inside the stove after use.
Made for countries with people who have limited access to cooking facilities they have grown popular with the outdoor types in other parts of the world.
They seem to be more acceptable with certain campsites that do not really like BBQs, as they are off the ground and contained, although you may find that the site you are staying at may want you to buy the wood from them.
There are several attachments that you can buy, like the water heater we have on our photo, very useful for tea or washing up water
We are very pleased with ours which gets used on a regular basis.
The frontier stove is around £200 with the water heater an optional extra around £100. Similar products are available at lower prices from major stockists online.
For this Member’s Motor, we look at Andrew Snowden’s ’71 Early Bay and his quest to give her a name.
What’s in a name?
As I write this, our van has been in our ownership for exactly ten years.
She is ‘the van’. We have never found another name that suits her – and she definitely is a ‘her’ – despite trying a number of names over the years.
We initially tried ‘Sydney’/’Cyd’ and then ‘Adelaide’ in recognition of the van’s roots. She is a ‘71 Australian Early Bay. But neither name stuck. ‘Sheila’ certainly didn’t fit. ‘Bluey’ didn’t work despite her colour.
We tried ‘Roxy’ for a while, as a homage to Rocinante, the horse ridden by Don Quixote as he roamed across Spain in the Middle Ages, madly trying to hold on to a chivalric world that was being overtaken by modernity. A bit like me, or any classic VW driver, I thought! But the name ‘Roxy’ didn’t catch on.
More recently, we tried ‘Scooby’ to reflect the new heart in our van – a two litre Subaru engine. That didn’t stick. An unkind friend now refers to her as the ‘Sub-dub’, a lesser being in his view. But, understandably, not our name for her.
In the end, says Jane, my patient wife, if the van had a name, she’d have let us know by now. So the van remains ‘the van’. And over the last ten years ‘the van’ has taken us across Spain, to France on numerous occasions, and to many festivals and campsites across the UK.
In the early years of ownership, she wasn’t a reliable traveller, to say the least, and we became adept at keeping calm when she broke down badly, enjoying a glass of wine once she was on a low-loader and talking about how we were saving on petrol costs and getting to our destination far quicker!
The scariest moment was in Spain, coming down the long descent from Puerto de Somosierra, when the brakes started making a terrible noise that even turning up the stereo didn’t hide! We nursed the van to the nearest campsite and decided to take advantage of our breakdown insurance. The next day a mechanic checked out the braking system, used my WD40 and mallet, and suggested that we just take it easy for the rest of our trip and use the brakes more sparingly on steep descents. At least I hoped that’s what he said! He couldn’t speak any English and couldn’t understand our basic Spanish. He probably said, ‘it’s a death trap and I’ll report you to the police if you try to leave the campsite’! But we had no further problems.
These days, after much fettling and a great new engine, she’s an absolute joy which can be relied on to get us to our destination and, more importantly, get us home again. The last pre-lockdown French trip covered 2000 miles, taking in Classic Le Mans and the Cahors Jazz and Blues Festival without a hiccup. This year, we have toured North Yorkshire and Cornwall without a hitch. Not bad for a 50 year old vehicle.
I’m not sure why she is a ‘she’. The colour? Her mannerisms? It’s a strange thing given that our previous Bay Westie was, within minutes of ownership, a ‘he’ and within hours named ‘Greg’. In a recent fit of nostalgia, I googled Greg’s registration number – PPH 138L – to see what had become of him. I came across an old request on Volkszone from more recent owners of ‘Bertha’ (Bertha??) who had just had her restored and were searching for her previous history! If there are any magazine readers who know of Bertha (aka Greg), we had her/him from 1999 until 2005. Given the registration number, I can’t understand why we and subsequent owners didn’t name the campervan ‘Phil’ or, if she really is a female, ‘Phyllis’. Strange things, campervan names.
I guess a name gives a van greater personality or individuality or even humanity. But there are limits. In the late 90s, we were looking for a late bay in our price range and one seller invited us to view ‘Poppy’ which was parked in his back garden. ‘Please call out to her as you go past the garage’, he said. ‘Poppy doesn’t like people sneaking up on her’! Giving a van a name is one thing. It may even have a personality. Giving it psychological issues is a step too far. In my view.
OK, our van may not have a name. But at least she has no hang-ups! And she’s given us 10 years of great enjoyment.
This edition we focus on sticky throttle pedals, courtesy of club member John “Undie” Underwood and his late bay “LottyAnne”. If you have a technical way forward with your vehicle, email editor@vwt2oc.co.uk for inclusion in a future post.
Since many of you have probably had the pain before me, let me see if what I have done helps you out. At first, I thought that it was the throttle cable catching through the tinware after my last one snapped, no not this time! Next, as Phil mentioned it could be the nuts on the carb linkage catching the tinware or shroud housing? Not this either! The only place now was at the front! First, I took off the pedal cover underneath, and checked the end plate had no muck or grime, then took the cover off the link arm in the driver’s footwell and checked all here, even the spring on the back of the pedal. Pushing down on the pedal, I noticed the two side plates that connect the pedal to the link arm seemed to be rubbing.
Checking the comments from my post, Nick Gillott suggested I try Buttysbits. The resulting conflab with owner Simon came up with the only (at the moment!) possible solution, which was to replace these plates with new stainless-steel ones, and he would also throw in a newly manufactured pedal link arm end plate. If I gave him a mention in our group! The new bits arrived and without too much technical know-how, I replaced the parts in question.
As you can see, no need to undo any of the cables at the engine end, just release the cable from the end plate and attach new then attach to the link arm. Straight away I noticed that the accelerator pedal is now in a more upright position! First couple of depressions on the pedal instantly gave me a smoother response. Happy days! BUT as a note, I will say this new pedal height, apart from feeling like my old Beetle throttle pedal, gives me a more responsive acceleration, but tick over is slightly higher, thus the need to adjust the end plate stopper down to slow the tick over, again without the need to adjust the cable at the engine end. The new plate has been manufactured to a slightly different angle to the original ones, hence higher it the pedal height.
Notice the new angle of those link plates to those in the first photo. I have been running this now for over a week and, touch wood, I have had no sticky pedal or any other issues, I recommend this product for others experiencing this issue as along with other products from BUTTYSBITS.
This issue we look at the Alternator. This gadget uses some of the energy from the engine to make electricity to charge the battery as the engine is running and provide enough power to run the stereo, headlights, ignition and anything else electrical that you need.
In theory, the output from the alternator should be around 14.4 volts – putting a voltmeter on an earth point and the alternator output with the engine NOT running will show you the battery voltage. Once the engine is running, the output is the alternator output which is also about the voltage that you will get once the battery is fully charged.
If you measure the alternator output with the engine running and you are not getting 14.0 to 14.5 volts then you are not doing yourself any favours – higher will risk overcharging the battery, lower and you are not charging the battery sufficiently. If you additionally run a split charge system then your leisure battery is also not getting a full charge.
This article is for a Type 1 upright engine and a 50 amp alternator, however the principle remains the same.
Step 1 – Disconnect all batteries, I favour removing the earth connections first. Now you can safely work on the electrics. Then undo the big bolt on the alternator then carefully screwdriver / prize the pulley towards you, counting how many shim washers are on each side of it. Once the pulley half is off, hopefully you will find the woodruff key that makes the pulley turn the alternator. Save that for when you lose the new one!
Step 2 – If you have the original oil bath air filter, remove that by disconnecting the air hose at the top of the carburettor and unfastening the clips holding the filter to its tray. If you have non-standard air filter or other items limiting access, now is a good time to remove these.
Step 3 – Remove the carburettor/s if in the way as well. For this article, we have a standard Solex PICT3 which comes off with just 2 bolts at the base, the throttle cable (one bolt) and the air pipe.
Step 4 – Undo the bolts securing the alternator stand to the top of the engine. There are 4 of them, the front 2 are easily accessible, the rear 2 are a little more tricky. With the carb out of the way and a wobble bar on a racket, it just takes a little fiddling. A magnet can be handy to retrieve errant bolts! I also recommend putting a cloth or similar across the work area to catch nuts and bolts rather than them dropping on the ground or grass below. Also undo the bolt on the right hand side of the alternator that secures the metal strap. The strap keeps the alternator on its stand and is a very key component – if it is loose, you can create major cooling issues! You do not need to remove the strap just get it undone.
Step 5 – There is a plate at the back of the alternator flush with the main air housing / dog house fan cover. There are 4 bolts holding this in roughly north east, south east, south west and north west. The top 2 are accessible for a socket. The bottom 2 need a spanner and a good deal of patience – you may not get them all the way out depending on your manifold. Do not worry!
Once you get to this stage the alternator is now loose and you can move it somewhat. We got to this stage and really struggled and cursed. One call to the amazing Stuart at Sussex Air Cooled and he gave us the top tip that gave us our “Yee har” moment.
Step 6 – on either side of the main air box you will find a bolt downwards. Undo both of those so that the air box moves. Now being careful of the oil cooler behind the air box on the left side, tilt the whole air box backwards – you can push quite hard. Then lift the alternator upwards and rearwards and the 2 inches behind the black plate has a big fan attached. With some pushing, wiggling and a liberal amount of talking nicely, the fan will pass far enough to clear the hole and lift up and out.
As you can see from the picture, we had removed the carburettor and put a rag over to stop anything getting in. We also removed the distributor cap just in case of damage – no other reason.
Now at your bench, the bolt on the far end of the alternator spindle need removing. Hold the spindle in the vice and remove – you may need an impact tool or a lot of brute force. Again, once removing the bolt, watch out for losing the woodruff key. Ours is somewhere on the floor in a workshop in Pevensey Bay!
Reassembly is the reverse of the above process. For the woodruff key installation, you may find that Locktite is your friend to hold it in place on the spindle before offering up the next piece.
Torque the bolts up per the manual and ensure that as you turn the new alternator’s outer pulley half that you are turning the pulley to keep the fan belt from being trapped. The tighter you go, the more slack will come off the fan belt. Do not over tighten though.
If you removed the carburettor, now might be a good time to change the base gasket as well as you are there.
Test that the fan belt is moving as expected, because a fan belt that is not moving means no cooling.
The Mechanic – A Guide to AGM Batteries
This guide to AGM batteries has been supplied by one of the Club’s generous supporters, Alpha Batteries.
Don’t forget that you can get a 5% discount on an order using code “motorhomer5” on their website www.alpha-batteries.co.uk
What Does AGM Mean?
AGM stands for Absorbent Glass Matt. AGM batteries are still fundamentally lead acid batteries, but the electrolyte (acid) is soaked on absorbent fibreglass mats between the lead plates inside, rather than traditional liquid acid. You will also notice that AGM batteries are rated over three capacity discharge times C10, C20 & C100. This relates to the power available in the battery over 10 hours, 20 hours and 100 hours. Designed for multi-application use, the power available will very much depend on how quickly you discharge the battery. From this common base AGM batteries come in three different forms:
AGM Type 1 – European
These batteries are used in multi-application environments such as modern stop-start vehicles and deep cycle applications. Great for starting engines and off grid use with a typical cycle life of around 300 – 350 cycles. It’s worth pointing out that ‘life cycles’ don’t mean the battery expires and needs replacing, rather it refers to the optimum power of the battery life. AGM 1 batteries are limited in size but are popular for the low height fitment demands in Campervans, Caravans and Motorhomes.
AGM Type 2 – Eastern
AGM 2 batteries are the more cyclic type with a typical max cycle life of between 500 – 700 cycles. They are generally recommended for regular off grid use as they have a higher cyclic ability to discharge and recharge over a long term period. In addition, they are less prone to sulfation and charge much more quickly than traditional batteries – if you charge them correctly, more on that later!
Lead Carbon AGM
By adding carbon graphene to the traditional AGM Type 2 battery you get Lead Carbon AGM. This adds further improvements to charging times and a typical cycle life of 1200 – 2000 cycles depending on the model. Lead Carbon AGM are becoming more and more popular and are often the last step along the AGM range before looking into Lithium based solutions.
Charging AGM Batteries
Despite what you may have been told, all 12v batteries are not the same! Wet Lead Acid, AGM, Carbon AGM and GEL batteries all charge and behave differently. To get the full benefits from an AGM battery it takes a little bit of research and time to check your existing charging method each step of the way.
If you take a look at the datasheets and technical specifications for AGM batteries on our website, you will see that we publish specific charge settings and this ultimately centres around voltage. AGM batteries are designed to require 14.6v – 14.8v when performing a full charge from a state of discharge, whereas standard lead acid batteries need 13.8v – 14.4v, hence this is what most onboard chargers are designed to deliver – not the 14.6v – 14.8v that AGM requires.
Let’s go into a little more detail and break-down the most common charging options on Campervans, Motorhomes, Caravans and Boats and point out what you need to look for:
Mains Chargers
Onboard you will, in most cases, have a mains powered battery charger / power management system. These are designed to be used when you have access to mains power to replenish the state of charge in your batteries or maintain them when not in use. Given that these chargers are generally the main and best method of charging, you need to make sure that you know what it can and can’t do when it comes to charging AGM.
You’ll need to check the make and mode of your onboard charger – if you have the owner’s manual check it as it should tell you in there – you are looking for specific charge programmes for different 12v battery technologies. If it says nothing and the charger has no selectable charge options, then you can assume it is designed for traditional wet lead acid batteries not AGM.
Furthermore, if your manual states ‘may be suitable with AGM check with your battery supplier’ and has a max charge voltage of 14.4v then this isn’t suitable for AGM either. We are aware that most Sargent onboard chargers and PSU’s state this – please take our advice, they are not suitable for AGM in the long term. Good quality modern onboard chargers have selectable charge profiles that support AGM and it’s important to check this first before investing in quality AGM batteries as battery warranties do not cover incorrect charging profiles.
My charger doesn’t support AGM but I want the benefits from AGM technology. What can I do?
All isn’t lost here. You can still use the onboard charger but you will need to supplement the undercharge from the non-AGM charger with a secondary mains charger at least once a month, as your non-AGM charger will only recharge the battery to around 85% and this will cause a memory effect in the battery reducing its life. The cost to replace the onboard power system for an AGM one will be costly, so using a secondary charger is more cost effective and will prolong the life of the AGM battery by getting the battery up to the all important 14.6v – 14.8v it needs.
Secondary chargers are great, you can use them anywhere when you have access to mains power and are a sure fire way to ensure your battery is getting the correct charge it needs. We recommend Victron Energy smart chargers which have dedicated charge profiles for AGM batteries – they are fully automatic and do everything that the battery needs. The size you will require depends on the size of your battery bank but Victron offer a range of solutions such as 7A, 10A, 15A.
Alternator Charging / Split Charging
Similar rules apply to split charging AGM batteries and standard alternator split charging by common durite systems are not optimised for AGM – they simply divide the preset wet lead acid starter battery voltage and apply it to the secondary leisure battery or bank. Again, like mains chargers this will be a typical voltage of around 13.8v – 14.4v and over time this will cause under charge to the AGM battery.
We are big advocates of battery to battery chargers also known as DC/DC chargers when it comes to split charging AGM batteries as they have specific AGM charge profiles and are simple to fit. Once programmed for AGM it takes the standard alternator charge voltage from the starter battery and converts the settings to suit an AGM battery ensuring a true and even charge. Some even come with solar charge controllers built in and can act as a single charging hub for your system – effectively acting as a wild camping mains charger when you have no mains power! Some great examples here are the Ring RSCS30 and Victron Orion.
Similarly as with mains charging, if your system doesn’t support AGM then it’s not the end of the world, you can use your existing set up, just make sure you compensate for the undercharging via an AGM optimised mains charger or solar charger if you have enough watts.
Solar Charging
Solar has become an ever popular method of charging batteries though we would never advise relying on solar alone as your main charge method, though they do offer benefits when used for maintenance or top charging. AGM batteries work well with solar and are widely used on solar systems. Most if not all solar charge controllers support AGM however the terminology varies when it comes to solar controllers and they may refer to AGM as ‘sealed’ – always check your manual and ensure that the AGM or sealed charge profile gets up to that magic 14.6v – 14.8v parameter.
Something to note – we have seen instances were charge controllers on AGM settings utilise whats known as equalisation mode. We would advise removing this setting on solar charge programmes as it can over charge the battery at more than 15v! Not good. Solar charging can be utilised to compensate for undercharging from your other, non-AGM optimised, methods of charging. If your standard split replay or mains charger is designed for wet lead acid up to 14.4v then you can let your solar panel get the AGM battery up to the 14.6v – 14.8v it needs.
Maintaining AGM Batteries
As with all batteries correct maintenance is important – particularly if it’s unlikely to be used for an extended period of time. With that in mind there are a few core points to follow:
Ensure the battery is fully charged before being left. A fully charged AGM battery should read 13.00v or above. Ideally you need to ensure the final charge is done via an AGM optimised charging profile.
Note: Remember, the cycle life is a guide on the optimum life span of the battery – it doesn’t mean the battery will pack up and stop working – but you will notice considerably less running time once the cycle life has been achieved. Battery warranty does not cover loss of capacity as this is subjective to the usage, the frequency the battery is under and whether it’s been correctly charged.
If you are looking for true deep cycle batteries designed for regular discharge and recharge then AGM products can offer all the benefits you require. No topping up with water, non-spill, quicker charging and long life. If you can invest some time in getting your charging right, then you will see much better performance over traditional wet lead acid types – something we have first hand experience of over many years – low return rates and minimal warranty issues speak volumes for AGM batteries.
Do you have an interesting fix or technical topic that you think members will find interesting? If so, let us know and we will share it with the club. Please email us at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk
Spend since last report: £160. Total hours labour since last report: 25.5
In February 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 21 hours on Eric. In March 2022, I worked a lot of hours and managed to do 15 hours on Eric. Then I retired and had no time to get in the garage again until August! They say that you wonder how on earth you managed to find time to work and for sure, I am keeping busy. From April to July, my first four months of retirement included 36 nights away in Poppy, my wife Lorna’s 1972 Crossover, including club camps at Cheddar, Great Bourton, Odiham and RAF Odiham! I also reupholstered 2 sofas, built a large timber deck for a friend, a car port, and numerous other projects.
Finally in August, I felt that I had enough items complete to venture back into the garage to see Eric. For anyone new, forgetful or just venturing into the magazine – I bought Eric in August 2015 as a blind purchase on eBay, he had been rotting outside for many years and was in a terrible state. The previous ten years of MOTs were a litany of corrosion, underseal, advisories and decay, spend on him was minimal and the mileage shows he did not get used. I am now at 862 man-hours of labour on Eric. Yes, 862. The project plan lists another 300 hours to go and total outlay excluding my labour is projected to be £17,000, just don’t tell my wife!
The first job after time away from his restoration was also the reason for not getting back to it – the scary piece of chopping the bulkheads from behind the seats. Given that some Bay window vehicles have no bulkheads, I was happy to do this from a strength perspective as I was putting in further metal to brace the B posts. Out they came! Then some 20mm box section steel was cut up and welded to make a rectangular back rest for a bench seat going the full width of the van. Then I repeated it to make a rectangular seat base for the bench seat. The bench seat is inclined very slightly to match the original seats and is mounted to the floor on welded brackets. These brackets effectively make hinges that are about 6 inches from the front of the seat mounted on the tubs approximately where the original seats were mounted.
“14 Eric 01” caption is “Two bulkheads”
“14 Eric 02” caption is “No bulkheads”
“14 Eric 03” caption is “Bench seat frame”
“14 Eric 04” caption is “Cardboard back rests to assist the arm placement”
“14 Eric 05” captions is “Serpentines, coils and outer in place”
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But why go to that length? The base is hinged, and I then made some blocks to go at the rear of the base. This makes the base inclined slightly the opposite way. Then I made “arms” for the back rest and after much mocking up with corrugated cardboard, the offside and nearside arms and their brackets were fabricated from 2mm steel plate. These arms support the back of the seat allowing you to drive in comfort. Once you get to your destination, the arms can be repositioned allowing the seat back to face the opposite direction. With the base also inclined in the opposite direction, Eric should end up with a sofa facing backwards. That cannot quite be finished yet as the back rest height is determined by the height of the seat base. Following the standard seat design, I welded some coil springs to the base frame down the sides of driver and passenger. Then I welded some serpentine zig zag springs front to back in between them. These sit on little bits of serpentine spring blow torched to bend to the right height. This now looks very like the original seat, and I added a steel string of 3mm diameter all around the outside to help the fabric sit correctly. Two front seats with metal as per the original for long distance comfort. Hopefully.
Next up, I need to add serpentine springs to the back rests for driver and passenger per the original design and work out exactly where the back rest will sit, then attach it to the arm.
Malcolm and Val joined us for my birthday weekend and the demo of the seat and the slide out pod (see previous issues) went well. As ever, Malcolm offered his thoughts and ideas which greatly helped refine the rough edges ready for implementation. Welding new steel is so much easier and more fun than blowing holes in rotten metal!
<Hannah to add “06 Nick sign off.tiff”>
For this edition of Member’s Motor, we look at Nigel Came’s Late Bay Window as he shares some stories of his early ownership.
My Late Bay T2 Camper (DET 710V) is ‘Ferrari Mio Ferrari’ (Ferrari My Ferrari); this is a word play on ‘Ferrari La Ferrari’ (Ferrari The Ferrari) a £2m hyper car.
The following may sound like a tale of woe but:
Back in the summer of 2018 I had a retirement job working as an onsite driver at the BCA Blackbushe car auctions. Every now and again an unusual vehicle (not an ex-company car or van) turns up for auction, this T2 Bay camper being one of them; from what I could see it was rusty in all the right places! For some while I had been thinking about getting a campervan for my motorsport marshalling trips and from the moment I first saw it, I could see how I wanted it to look once restored; a big mistake!?
The first week going through the auction it did not sell getting nowhere near its reserve of £10K. The second week, the van was up for sale again on Thursday, I told everybody at work that I was not going to put in a bid for it. But on the Wednesday morning I could not help myself and I had to put a bid in. I put in what I thought was a low bid, relative to the reserve, but close to the price offered the previous week. At the end of the day, on Thursday, I found out that for £7k I was the owner of DET 710V.
My initial plan was to restore the van myself. A neighbour was restoring a split screen van and had all the relevant equipment and offered to help me. [As an aside his van is another story in itself, he bought it from the estate of an acrimonious divorce and the wife had attacked every body panel with an axe!] So, I bought the Haynes VW Bay Transporter Restoration manual (written by Fletcher Gillet) and having read the introduction I knew I was in trouble! I had also discovered a local VW specialist and decided to take the van to them for a restoration estimate. Based on their experience, from restoring vans in similar condition, the owner gave me a pre strip estimate of £20 to £30K. This was within my budget range so in July 2018 I left the van with them.
This VW specialist is a very successful and busy business, there are lots of air-cooled VW’s and early Porsches on site at any one time, and it took just under a year for my van to reach to top of the queue and the work began in June 2019. From then on it was like walking down a slippery slope and I describe the experience of being like ‘peeling the rings off an onion’; the more you exposed the more that need restoring! After a further 18 months, progress being delayed by COVID, 2000 mhrs of labour (plus parts and VAT) I collected my ‘Ferrari Mio Ferrari’ in November 2020. She looked fantastic, the VW specialist had done an excellent job, and it looked exactly as I had envisaged it back in the summer of 2018.
I knew I could expect some teething problems with a fully restored van but did not expect, and I was more than a little disappointed, the first one to occur on the drive home. The steering was almost uncontrollable; to say it was vague and sticky was an understatement. After a couple of short local drives and an exchange of emails, with the VW specialists, I took the van back to them in December 2020. Again, the work was delayed due to COVID but I collected the van in February 2021; with a new steering box and anti-roll bar fitted, the steering was fixed.
My next problem occurred a week later when I took the van to a tyre fitter to get the wheel tracking/alignment sorted; the VW specialist did not have the laser equipment. Firstly, as the van has been lowered, their equipment did not fit and on driving away after a few hundred yards I lost all drive! I was pushed to a safe place and called the VW specialists, the owner said it sounded like a gearbox issue; once again I was more than a little disappointed as the gearbox had been refurbished as part of the restoration. The van was recovered back to the VW specialist later that day. Fortunately, the loss of drive was not a gearbox issue but was due to the drive shaft bolts working loose! I collected the van in March and it has run like a dream ever since (touch wood) and it has not been back to the VW specialist again.
My marshalling season runs from March to November and during the past 2021 season I have used the camper most weekends covering around 3000 miles visiting race circuits around the country. This year I am planning to go even further afield and drive it to the Spa circuit, in Belgium, and marshal there.
Whilst I will never fully recover from the trauma and expense of the restoration ‘Ferrari Mio Ferrari’ is everything that I wanted for my weekends away marshalling and I am a very proud member of the VW T2 Owners Club. PS: my wife calls the camper ‘my 5* plus hotel’.
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Here we advise members how to obtain their VW’s Birth Certificate and Data Sheet, which is a nice novelty item and can also prove to be useful if you are missing important information from your V5 etc.
The certificate and data sheet can be obtained directly from VW using their Classic Parts online shop.
The specific web address required is detailed below:
https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/en_uk/service/certificate-data-sheets.html
when visiting the site, you will need to enter either you chassis number (VIN) or engine number. Seeing as many VWs have had engines changed over the years, it is probably better to enter your VIN.
There are three purchase options:
We would recommend the bundle option, it is nice to have additional data about your vehicle if it is available.
This is what VW have to say about their service:
Original and exclusive.
With your hand on your heart: do you know the exact production date of your car? Do you know which special equipment the first owner ordered? Or which upholstery material you need to look for to restore your classic car to its original state?
You can find the answers from us – in the form of the Volkswagen certificate and the Volkswagen data sheet, which we issue exclusively on behalf of the manufacturer. By the way, this is not only for classic cars and modern classics, but also for more recent models, which were first registered at least 15 years ago!
Just like it was ex works, once upon a time.
On the basis of the chassis number or vehicle identification number (VIN), the original delivery condition of each Volkswagen model can be determined exactly – regardless of whether it was built in 1949, 1989 or 2007. For research purposes, we have access to millions of records from the archives of the Volkswagen Group. Information on almost every vehicle ever produced is stored there – on car master cards, punched cards, microfilms or, of course, in digital form.
This documentation forms the basis for our “detective work”: using old lists, historical brochures, sales programmes, colour sample cards or fabric samples, we decrypt the codes for the engine and transmission, original paint, upholstery or additional equipment.
As well a great deal of expertise, this, of course, requires some time. Usually, however, the period between ordering and the delivery of a Volkswagen certificate or data sheet is a maximum of six to eight weeks. You will receive then a document specially issued for you, which contains valuable information on the original condition of your classic.
The next edition of the club magazine has been finished by our Editors and looks fantastic. It should be arriving through your door soon! If you are enjoying the club magazine and have a story about a trip, an upgrade, a restoration or just a tip, send a contribution to our Editor at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk.