Website Manager and General Committee member of the Owners Club.
Owner of Eric the Viking (converted panel van with Viking roof) undergoing complete restoration. Tinkerer to Poppy the camper van (1972 Crossover dormobile).
A simple dish made in a single pan using mainly store cupboard items for a wholesome winter treat
Ingredients – serves 2
4 sausages One large white onion One can of tomatoes One can of baked beans One can of sweetcorn A clove of garlic (optional) Spicy sauce (optional) Olive oil
Slice the sausages into cubes and fry on a moderate heat for ten minutes. Add the onion and let that cook for another five minutes. Add everything else and simmer for ten minutes with the lid off to reduce it slightly. Serve with crusty bread to dip into the stew!
Spend since last report: £274. Total hours labour since last report: 72.66
In the 2 months since I last wrote an update about Eric there has been a lot of change. Fortunately, I note what I do each trip to the garage, how long I spend in there and I also document every purchase, just don’t tell Lorna the total! This makes it easier to write it up as I have clear “notes”.
The serpentines arrived – wavy bits of metal that provide the suspension for the seat backs. Initially I used the clips that came with them, but it was all very loose, so each serpentine was welded to the next one. At the sides, I used shortened sections of the serpentines bent to 90 degrees and welded in place as that seems to be how original seats are done – I was able to use the crème brulee torch that I bought about 15 years ago and had never used except for lighting the fire! It all looked fab and received rust proofing paint, primer, and black topcoat. Then I added some plungers purchased online to allow the seat back to lock in place for either driving or camping, sadly I put them in the wrong place and had to do it again the next day!
With the base almost complete, I spent more time on the seat tubs as they have some extra strengthening added for the arms of the seat back. It is starting to look good. I suspect that there will need to be some minor fettling when I get to upholster the base and back, but for now I am calling that section complete.
Following an email chat with a race engine builder in Warwickshire, I put restoration on hold and stripped an engine for the first time. My wife’s 1972 crossover Poppy had an engine replacement in 2015 when the case was found to be split, tipping oil everywhere and the engine had sat in the corner of the garage ever since. I bought a 1776 Mexican case online that was drilled for full flow (external oil cooler ability), but I did not really know what that meant. It took me just over 5 hours to strip the engine from the rockers inwards. From a “long block” and down past the barrels and pistons to piles of engine bits!
Don’t they all look pretty? I set a date with the engineer and toddled off in the rain for 90 minutes to see him, armed with a car full of engine parts from Poppy’s engine and the new case. All he needs to do is build them up into a fabulous engine once I buy the new, larger barrels and pistons. Unfortunately, as with most bits of this restoration, the theory was better than the practice.
The case that I had purchased online was a “good Mexican case” which turned out to have case saver studs, corrosion, had already been align bored and signs of very bad treatment. The drilling for full flow / external oil cooler had been done badly and is for a Beetle – the mounting bar (aka moustache bar) for a Bay window means that those holes cannot be used. Sadly, this is becoming increasingly regular as the cases are old and have not been made since 2014. Never mind he said, I will see what I can do once it is fully cleaned, tested, and measured. Which costs money and might end up as unusable anyway.
Next, we turned to the crankshaft. It has been ground several times and is very worn. He will polish rather than grind and see if it allows it to be used. Which costs money and might end up as unusable anyway.
He looked at the heads and gave them back to me. Totally shot, not even worth trying to resurrect. New heads required. Which costs money.
Finally, he looked at the flywheel. It needs to be 21mm deep between the inner and outer levels and was 20.34mm and the milling to that height had been done badly. New flywheel required. Which costs money.
In summary, I spent 5 hours dismantling an engine and nothing from it is usable. I spent £150 buying a case that is potentially no use either.
More work was done that that, but I will save that for next time. Enjoy your winter whatever you are doing, and I hope to see you at a club event in a field.
The next edition of the club magazine has been finished by our Editors and looks fantastic. It should be arriving through your door soon! If you are enjoying the club magazine and have a story about a trip, an upgrade, a restoration or just a tip, send a contribution to our Editor at editor@vwt2oc.co.uk.
Yes, it is that time again. Hurray! Finally, after the long winter in our non-mobile houses, we can get out our beloved vehicles.
Checklist
Hopefully you all followed the article Time for bed/ to help put your vehicle to bed for the winter. Now that spring is in the air and we are starting to think about getting out and communing in nature, this is a key time to get things ready.
Doors locks – there’s nothing more annoying than a failed lock. get it fixed now before the season really gets going. Door lock issues can be very straight forward but a simple lubrication can be key. Pun intended. A non residue lubricant is best to move the dirt away as WD40 can leave enough gunk to create issues. We favour silicon spray. A little into each lock.
Windscreen wipers – did they perish in the cold winter freezing them to the windscreen. Inspect and replace now.
Water – check the radiator if you have one. Ensure that the bottles that you emptied in the Autumn / fall have no mice, carefully hidden Christmas presents or mildew. Clean with a weak Milton solution if it is drinking water or food related.
Batteries – check the charge on each battery with a good meter. A flat battery can indicate an earth leak. A failed battery needs careful investigation.
Carburettor – Or equivalent. Check for good operation, no stuck flaps or other deterioration over winter. If you are a professional, this will be straight forward. If you are an amateur, a test drive very close to home will highlight problems! But only after the other checks.
Brakes – your vehicle should roll easily, otherwise this can indicate jammed brakes. Parking in gear for long periods of time can be better for your brake health than a jammed set of brakes. Check the brakes for operation. Check the brake fluid level. If it has been more than 5 years, change the brake fluid as it is hygroscopic and slurps up water incredibly quickly. Water is not a good fluid for applying the brake pads to the disks.
Seals – inspect all door seals for any signs of damage, water ingress or other problems and sort them out now. Glue any loose bits back down with the correct glue.
Windows – ensure that they all open and close fully. Or at least as fully as they did last year if applicable!
Ignition – Once you are feeling confident, get in to your pride and joy and turn on the ignition to number 2. Look at the lights on the dashboard. Check there ARE lights! Are they what you expect / are used to seeing? Have you got fuel (for those with a working fuel gauge)?
Crank it over – don’t expect it to start immediately but things should kick into life within a few seconds.
A little test drive on your driveway will allow you to test the brakes, maybe the steering and other important parts. Softly, softly.
Stay local, take your phone with you and warm clothing. Just in case!
Once you get home, assuming that you have a big smile on your face, make a list of snags, get indoors, put the kettle on and start planning for your summer.
Check out the events page and come and see us at a meeting soon!
Last issue, Thomas covered getting into the scene and enthusing his children with the camper van bug. He continues:
It is always easy to devote time in club magazines such as this, to repairs and breakdown advice, and why not. Being part of the VW ‘community’ has shown me that VW owners are usually so willing to help other VW owners. Much kindness, help and assistance has been offered to me in the past. I was always so grateful, that I now offer the same whenever I can. Part of owning an older vehicle is to resolve problems (I won’t say the word ‘issue’, I hate it, it’s a PROBLEM!), in order to keep using your old vehicle. Having said that, I will talk of problems with my bus, and how they have been resolved. Not forgetting to enjoy them!
My first known mechanical difficulty was when driving from Honiton to Axminster. No sooner had I arrived in the small market town, I noticed the red generator light come on. By this time, I had been made aware that a loud BANG, followed by the ‘Red light of doom’ (the oil light) and the red light of…nearly doom (generator) require immediate action. That is, STOP THE ENGINE ASAP!
As luck would have it, I was right outside a local garage and MOT station, ong gone now to make way for a well-known supermarket chain. Coasting in, I came to a halt at the front door of the garage workshop. Looking in the rear engine bay, the fan belt was on and seemed tight, but when turning the pulley by the fanbelt (careful not to trap your hand) a grinding, crunching noise could be heard. Having worked from the local Hospital for some years and getting to know the local shops and trades, I was unaware of this garage, or if they were good with aircooled VW’s. Not able to move my van and rather stuck, I was forced to seek their help. Luckily for me, I could get to work and take the train home later, leaving the van in the hands of the garage “I’ll get the lad on it”. A worrying sight, as the poor lad looked so new and bewildered by an old aircooled van. He searched for the bonnet. There was none I informed him. “Where is the engine then?” He stares into the rear engine bay in disbelief. Clearly he was lost on this one. I queried the managers wisdom in setting the task of diagnosing my vans problem when he can’t even find the engine. If only my van could be transported home. This was not an option at that time.
The next day I was informed that the fan at the rear of the alternator had disintegrated. I trotted down on foot to visit and see for myself. Pieces of ‘doghouse’ and other components were everywhere. Even though I had not taken my engine apart myself before then (I have since) it looked a mess. The centre part of the fan was missing!
A new replacement fan was required. The garage mechanics were telling me that I needed a new engine. In my view, I had stopped the engine at the moment I heard an unusual noise (the BANG!) and when my warning lights came on. The engine did not stop, I stopped it. Still they insisted. From my early learnings of my van’s inner workings, I was not satisfied with their logic, even though I fully understand I am a self taught mechanic and not a professional. Even fanless, the engine turned and compression felt good. The search was on for a fan. At that time, the supply of VW components was OK, but not as plentiful as available now. A member of Hospital staff knew someone in the town who loved VW’s and ran around in Beetles. Only a nickname and name of a road near the Hospital. Walking up this road I soon found a VW Beetle parked in a driveway next to another under cover. Knocking on the door, it was answered by a young chap. Amused to find an unknown stranger at his door I explained my trouble. What followed was a quick tutorial on his Beetle engine, and a mucky spare fan shoved into my hand with spare nut and shims. This was my first real memory of other VW owners’ kindness. Heading back to the garage I handed the fan to the apprentice mechanic and offered advice where I could. I also carried a Haynes manual in my van which I gave him. My instructions to him and his manager were NOT to order a new engine. Fit the new fan, put it all back together and we will see what happens. Only if it all goes wrong will I consider this option.
A day or so later I called into the garage to see what progress had been made. Just in time to see it fire up and run sweetly. Success! Whilst at home, I looked at my paperwork and found that an MOT was due. Contacting the garage, I asked if they could do this as my van was with them.
The next day I was informed that my van engine was working and an MOT was passed, but my radiator needed urgent replacement. Thinking that this the manager was talking about the oil cooler, I visited the garage again. To my utter disbelief, he insisted that a new radiator was urgently needed, and explained the perils of keeping the cooling system of my engine in good order. I asked the Manager (Snr Mechanic) to show me exactly where on my van the radiator and water-cooling system were located. What’s more, if he can’t find it, I want my MOT fee waived. Not long after I left the garage, only paying for the replacement of fan and work done to expose it and put it all back. I only got outside onto the main road when my light came on again-the fan had undone itself! Leaving it with them AGAIN. On collecting it the next day I was told “To stop it happening again we put a spot of weld on the van to the shaft of the alternator”!!! (Editor – they had failed to install the woodruff key from the sound of it).
From then, I vowed to do whatever I can myself if able.
More trips and camping and diving holidays followed. Great fun. What’s more, I got to sit next to Falmouth bay, after a dive, in the doorway of my VW van supping a coffee and eating a mars bar. A realised dream at last.
This week, we focus on valve clearances on Type 1 engines (Beetle, Split Screen, Bay window and early T25s), courtesy of 2-year club member John Hawthorn and his 1980 Westfalia Bay window. If you have a technical way forward with your vehicle, email editor@vwt2oc.co.uk for inclusion in a future post.
MY EXPERIENCE OF VALVE CLEARANCE SETTINGS AND OTHER MUSINGS by John Hawthorn
I drive a Volkswagen Transporter 2, 1980 Bay Window model with a 1600cc AS series engine. I like to try and do servicing work on the vehicle myself and leave technical, or jobs requiring specialist tools, to the experts. This my experience or musings about setting the valve clearances.
Setting the valve clearances, or tappet clearances, is very important if you are going to get the best performance from your four stroke, pushrod engine. The clearance is to allow for expansion when the engine gets hot. If the clearance is too tight the valves may not close correctly, leading to poor performance, damaged valve seats, a lot of popping and banging through the exhaust or carb, and the engine not running at all because it has no compression. To have the gaps too loose affects the valve timing. The valves will open too late, will not fully open and will close too early. The whole point of the valve timing, which is initially determined by the shape of the lobe on your camshaft and getting the camshaft rotation setting correct, is to maximise the efficiency and performance.
My first experience of tappets was when I was 16. My Triumph Tiger 100, a 500cc four stroke engine, had oil leaks from the pushrod tubes, which I decided to fix. Yes, I am that old. Having passed my test at 16, I was legally able to ride an unlimited sized motorcycle without a crash helmet. I had previously only worked on two stroke engines. I removed the engine head, as you need to do, replaced the rubber gaskets, and rebuilt the engine. I then went for a test drive. The engine popped, banged, and backfired. On my return home I consulted my Dad. Originally, he taught me all I knew – he was my mechanic mentor – and importantly he let me learn by trying to do it. So, when I consulted him, he asked if I had set the tappets correctly. I said “No. I left them at the original setting and just bolted the head back on”. If you strip the top end of your engine, you must set your tappets after a rebuild.
My next experience of setting tappets was on my JAP engine speedway bike. If you know speedway you will recognise that in terms of motorcycle racing it is really a sprint. A race usually lasts less than 70 seconds (even I could beat that) and you start with the engine warmed up and ready. You are not likely to add much extra heat to the engine in a race, and therefore no increased expansion. It was also convenient that the tappet adjustment was on the pushrod end of the valve rocker. Our method of valve clearance adjustment was to get the engine hot then tighten the valve clearance so you could just spin the pushrod with your fingers; practically no clearance at all. A method I am still often tempted to follow if I physically could, but perhaps a bit risky if you are about to set off on a long journey and get the engine really hot!
As I gained more knowledge and experience, my slightly OCD nature started to manifest itself. I looked for tools and devices that would enable me to adjust and tune my engines more precisely. I bought an Engine Analyser, primarily so I could set the Dwell Angle on my ignition points and not rely on feeler gauges to set the points gap. It was at this period that I invested in a Gunson Tappet setting tool. For those who are not familiar it incorporates a screwdriver and socket, as opposed to the screwdriver and ring spanner you would normally use. It also has a torque sensitive micrometre cap. When you wind the cap, the screwdriver tightens the valve clearance. When it clicks the valve clearance is fully closed. By knowing the pitch of the thread on the tappet screw the tool now allows you to “back off” the clearance by clicks to set the correct gap. In practice I found this reasonably successful when leaning over an engine bay on a standard saloon car, but not so reliable lying on my back under a VW T2. I could not trust that the thread did not move as I tightened the lock nut, and I resorted to checking with a feeler gauge anyway. The supposed advantage of the tool, when used correctly is that it should be more accurate. On an old engine, the valve stem may have worn an indentation into the rocker arm in which case the real clearance is between the valve and the bottom of the indentation. As the tool relies on you closing the gap fully and setting it from there, this wear is taken into account. A feeler gauge pushed between the valve stem and the rocker will bridge the indentation and make no allowance for it.
And so, to my recent experience. As part of an engine service, I had reset the valve clearances. I had tried to use the tool but resorted to using a pack of feeler gauges for measuring the gap, a screwdriver for the tappet adjustment screw, and a ring spanner for the locking nut. Three tools and only two hands whilst lying on my back. I had not even bothered to put it on ramps or jack it up. If you have tried this, you will know how clumsy a pack of feeler gauges can be, particularly if you have a mixed metric and imperial pack. As I was about to get under the vehicle once again, I noticed that the screw and nut holding all the feeler gauges was loose to the point of falling off. I thought I had better sort that as I did not want all of the feelers falling over my face onto the ground. Imagine having to sort them back into the correct order (or maybe just buy a new set). Then I had the eureka moment. I did not need the whole pack under the vehicle only the 0.006” or 0.15mm gauge. So, I carefully took them apart, making sure I kept them stored in the correct order, and went back under with only one feeler gauge. Life was much easier.
As it happens this experience fits very neatly with another aspect of my OCD nature. When I carry out a job on my T2, I record the tools I need to do the job. Not just the size of a nut and bolt, but whether a ring spanner will fit, or a ratchet spanner or only an open-ended spanner. Perhaps a socket will do, but is it six pointed / twelve pointed? does it need to be a deep socket? or does it need a slim socket? or even a tube spanner? As I build up my knowledge and database, I can also refine the toolkit I carry on the van. Why carry a full set of ring spanners and sockets if you know you only need half a dozen sizes? My investigation, so far, suggests that the only feeler gauges I need are 0.7mm for spark plugs; 0.4mm for ignition points, and 0.15mm for valve clearances.
OK, I have said it myself a few times, I am slightly OCD but I like to know my vehicle and have the tools I need to hand when I do a job. Does anybody else think the same? Are you interested in sharing the knowledge?
Postscript – Valve Recession
There is a slightly more technical issue that I experienced more recently. On the way to the VWT2OC camp at Petruth Paddocks in April this year, my T2 started to develop some loss of power issues. I could only go so fast; occasionally the engine felt like it had lost power for a moment; and it felt like I was feeling the throttle to keep the engine running at times. On the return journey we broke down a couple of times, but it seemed to start again after a short rest. Eventually we had to admit defeat and call the AA. I had noticed the engine bay was sprayed with engine oil but could not identify the source. The AA patrolman put his finger on the problem very quickly, and quite literally. The fuel pump was shot. The actuator is a rocker arm, driven by a push rod from the camshaft on one side and the other side pressing on the pump diaphragm. The rocker had seized to the pivot pin and, as a result, it had then worn the hole it fits in, thus creating the oil leak and disabling the pump’s efficiency. I replaced the pump, with new gaskets, at home, by removing the distributor cap; then the distributor (having marked the position before hand) – using a 13mm socket and a short extension bar for the distributor; a flat blade screwdriver for the fuel hoses on the pump and a 13mm ring spanner for fuel pump to engine block. I drove around for a few short journeys, and everything seemed fine. The next “trip” was to “The Magic Teapot Festival” near Shepton Mallet. We did not make it. On the M5 I felt the engine die and instinctively knew it was bad. This time neither the AA patrol nor I had any real idea what was wrong. I thought the engine felt a bit hot, but I have no temperature gauge. I was afraid I might have burnt out the valves. The engine has not been converted for unleaded fuel, and I run with Reddex Lead Replacement. At home I tried everything I thought I could do. Then I tested the compression on the engine. Compression on number 2 cylinder seemed very low and number 4 had no compression. I was now seriously contemplating a replacement engine. A couple of days passed and in a last moment of desperation I removed the rocker box covers and checked the valve clearances. None had any clearance at all. All the gaps had closed leaving valves permanently open. So, I reset the valve clearances and the engine was good to go. But why did all the gaps close? Of course, they are likely to close when the engine gets hot, but they should reopen as it cools. Jim, my neighbour then introduced me to a factor called valve recession. This is where the valves recede into the valve seats in the engine head because metal between the valve and head is lost. This has the effect of lessening the valve clearance as the valve stem moves closer to the tappet. It usually happens because of valve edges and seats burning due to overheating. Jim’s theory is that when the fuel pump failed, I was driving according to what the fuel pump would deliver. As I felt for the optimum throttle position, I was effectively running the fastest I could, but with a very lean mix of fuel and air. It was this lean mix that created overheating and started the damage to the valves. I think that ultimately, I will have to take the heads off and inspect the situation. At present it seems OK on short journeys. The important point is that I have no other rational explanation why all my valve clearances closed as they did!
By simply replacing your original dipstick with this Hot Oil Sensor and attaching the 18″ wire (included with the kit) to the oil pressure switch, you immediately begin to monitor your engine’s oil temperature. The oil pressure light at the bottom of your speedometer now serves two functions. Whilst continuing to monitor your oil pressure, it now provides the data from the Hot Oil Sensor as well. If your engine oil reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit (107 degrees Celsius) the light will begin to flicker, indicating that you are approaching an unsafe operating temperature. Simply reduce your speed and the light will typically stop flickering, indicating that your oil temperature has fallen to a safe operating temperature once again. If your oil temperature continues to rise to 235 degrees Fahrenheit (113 degrees Celsius) the light will remain on solid. This is the temperature at which you should pull over, in order to investigate the issue.
The Hot Oil Sensor was created by Harold Brown in the late 1960s and remains virtually unchanged since the first one was offered for sale, over 50 years ago. Works in all air-cooled engines and is available from main stockists – and members, don’t forget to get your club discount!
Steve Tatner has another gadget called a Ridge Monkey, to go with his Frontier stove from last issue. He writes:
Michelle discovered these a few years back and have taken them with us ever since. They were originally designed for anglers, cooking while fishing by the riverbank.
They have removable magnetic handles which hold the top and bottom of the two pans together.
They are great for when cooking in the van, for instance when frying burgers, you have no need to try and flip the burger, just turn the pan over, its enclosed which stops oil and fat spitting everywhere inside your bus. The medium sized pan also has compartments which is very useful. They are dead easy to clean.
The Ridge Monkey range includes a toaster, thermos mug and water bottles with cooking pans complete with utensils starting at £20.
In about 1988, my wife Susan and I moved from the Midlands to Devon. At that time, we had travelled to Devon and Cornwall many times for camping trips or other short holidays. My brother and I, being familiar with Falmouth, as we were keen amateur divers at the time, borrowing our parents Bedford CF Campervan or driving down for a long weekend in a mini Clubman with our diving gear.
Somewhere near and around Falmouth we used to wild camp a little. Not much fun sharing sleeping space with smelly wetsuits back then, but it was still an adventure. No-one bothered us as we always parked out of the way and never ever left rubbish about, or blocked others enjoyment with our dive gear. Being students at the time, we were quite short of money, sometimes with only enough petrol money and always made our own food. Always praying that we would never break down or need to spend any money other than for our diving cylinders to be filled with air at the local dive shop in Penryn.
Falmouth is a popular spot for offshore diving. Whilst there, I always liked the VW campervans parked near us, jealous of other divers sat in the sliding door areas having a coffee and a mars bar after a dive, the doors wide open to take in the fantastic views across Falmouth bay – I wanted one !
It was now 1994, and I was researching VW campers. A splitscreen van was really desirable, but even then, the prices of them were rising beyond my reach. We had two children by then. Daughter Catherine (about 3yrs old) and son Patrick about one and a half. A camper would provide good family transport and holiday opportunities – this was not going to be our only transport, but a fun vehicle!
The search began for a Bay window van. Many could be found quite cheaply back then. Even so, their prices began to rise steadily. For those who could not afford a splitscreen, you bought a Bay window!
It is no exaggeration to say that I visited about twenty Baywindow buses. Being no stranger to owning older cars (I cut my teeth on restoring Standard 8 cars of the 1950’s, and always kept a fleet of cars running on a shoestring to get to and from work), so I knew roughly what to look for and what to avoid. Many were bodged vans, rotten bodywork and structural areas poorly welded.
Then I found one. A 1974 (later found to be an error and made in 1973. Important as you will find later). It was white and Sumatra green paintwork, a Devon pop-top conversion, two spotlights on the front bumper and the spare wheel carried on the front. Original Devon furniture within with tiny sink and cool box. The engine was a 1600 cc Vege unit and there was a tow bar. The roof went up, and two bunks came out on sturdy bars while the seating converted to a double bed space below. The original front seats had gone, and in their place were two small seats. Think they were from a Renault.
The van had already had six owners. The last being a young couple from Exmouth. They had been made redundant from work, and their van had to go. We bought it for £2,000.
Sounds a small amount now, but even then this was the best van I had seen and most original. My wife and I paid the money and drove it away with the former owners in tears. Before we left, they made us promise to offer it to them first if ever we were to sell it in the future. They were not to know that we still own it today in 2022, with no intention of selling just yet. We simply have too many great memories in the van, and places to which we have travelled.
We later found that our ‘new’ van was converted to a ‘Devon’ at the works in Sidmouth, just nine miles from where we live in Honiton.
Why ‘Libertine’ as a name for the van? Well, even before there was a Band called ‘The Libertines’, we were travelling around the Republic of Ireland. We met an elderly lady who, when talking of our travels in the van, said “Oh, you’re Libertines then?” The name stuck.
When first taking ownership, we decided that we would pack the van with our young children and head off into the unknown. The plan was simple. Head off from Devon up one side of the country and get as far as we can go with two small children, a simple map book and a bit of petrol money. No mobile phones, Internet bookings and satnavs back then!
Our adventures took us up to Lake Windemere, onward through to Scotland. Beautiful Oban and Fort William. Occasionally wild camping for the adventure of it, but really because we had no money for camp sites. One night we camped in a field, and much noise was coming from the fields behind where we were camped. Small huts occupied the hillside. We later found that this was a film set village for ‘Rob Roy’ with Liam Neeson. The noise was from the end of filming party.
We even got to attend the Edinburgh Festival by accident more than design. Our journeys took us south again, then home. In all that time (two weeks) I am not aware of the van letting us down. It rained almost constantly, only stopping when we did. Then blue sky, see the sights and back into the van for more rain to fall. We were all so wet once, and all our dry clothes used up we had to find a laundrette to dry some.
The van had proved itself, the kids enjoyed themselves and it was a great first adventure. In fact, our children (now 31 and 29) have campers of their own and love wild camping – so something has rubbed off!
Club member Julie Barber shared a recipe that some of the members might like to try.
If you have not got a slow cooker, then just cook it in the oven at 180-200C for a few hours or until the potatoes are tender. If you don’t like any of the ingredients, then just swap them out with something that you do like! There is no set way of cooking this recipe, just pop in the main ingredients & get creative if you want to add other bits.
Prep time is about 10-15 minutes and it should serve 5-6 people (depending on how a big a portion you like).
INGREDIENTS
750g minced beef 6 medium red potatoes (or any potato of your choice) 1 medium onion 3 garlic gloves (I use the jars of lazy garlic and put in a tablespoon & a half) 1 can red kidney beans (I use Tesco Mixed Taco Beans in red sauce instead) 1 can of haricot beans (or a tin of baked beans or black-eyed beans if you prefer) 1 can diced tomatoes (with green chilli if you like spicy food) Some water 1 & half tablespoon salt 2 teaspoons pepper Grated cheese (any flavour you like here)
DIRECTIONS
1. Brown the mince & drain off the excess fat 2. Cube the potatoes & add to your slow cooker, then season with the salt & pepper 3. Chop the onion & add that with the garlic to the slow cooker 4. Add minced beef, beans & tomatoes & pour over the water 5. Give it a good stir 6. Cover and cook on low for 7-8 hours 7. Sprinkle grated cheese on the top for the last 15 minutes & continue to cook covered 8. Now you can do the taste bowl test if you are hungry, or…. let the whole thing cool down and pop into containers 9. Take it with you on your next overnight campervan campout & just warm up in a saucepan for 10-15 minutes
