Author Archives: Nick Gillott

About Nick Gillott

Website Manager and General Committee member of the Owners Club. Owner of Eric the Viking (converted panel van with Viking roof) undergoing complete restoration. Tinkerer to Poppy the camper van (1972 Crossover dormobile).

JK TRAINING DAY by management team member David Marriott

Just Kampers have recently wrapped up the first four of their JK Training Days, where they gave small groups of enthusiasts some hands-on mechanical experience working on classic Volkswagens.

 Mark Reynolds, who started Just Kampers back in 1989 (35 years ago last September!) hosted the Training Days in his own workshop, and was joined by ‘Workshop Mark’, who is Just Kampers’ onsite mechanic and star of their how-to videos on YouTube.

 They used Mark Reynolds’ 1967 Beetle Cabriolet and a 1970 T2 Bay belonging to Pete Dempsey from the JK Team, as well as a series of vintage cut-away engines, gearboxes, and floor pans to demonstrate how things work, how to check them, and how to fix them.

 A different topic was covered on each day:

• Getting your VW Ready to Use After Winter, and Basic Servicing

• An Introduction to Working on Classic VWs for Beginners

• Breakdown Prevention and 10 Tips to Get You Back on the Road If You Do Break Down

• An Introduction to Classic VW Brakes, Steering, and Suspension

These first four JK Training Days were used as a bit of a testing ground, to see how best to communicate the sorts of information that people might want if they’re new to working on air-cooled VWs, and to gauge interest in hands-on training days as a concept. It’s fair to say that there’s definitely interest in these sorts of events, as the limited number of tickets for the events sold out really fast!

Everyone who booked paid £100 for their place at the event and was then asked whether they wanted the money donated to Cancer Research UK or Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care, which is a charity local to Just Kampers. 100% of the money from the events went to charity, with a total of £2,500 raised – £1,100 went to Cancer Research UK, and £1,400 went to Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care.

After the success of these initial training days, and the great feedback they’ve had from attendees, the team at Just Kampers are keen to run more of these hands-on events.

If you have a topic or subject you’d like to see covered in a JK Training Day, you can email the JK Team at jkworld@justkampers.co.uk with your suggestion – there’s no promises that they’ll make it into a theme for a JK Training Day, but they’re definitely keen to know what you want to learn about!

You can read more about JK’s training day events at justkampers.com/jk-training-days/

You can also learn more about Cancer Research UK and Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Care at cancerresearchuk.org and pth.org.uk respectively.

Cooking – Vegioli

Ingredients – Serves 2
Oil for frying
4 large or 6 medium tomatoes (or 1 tin for ease!)
Pesto sauce
Chilli sauce (optional)
Crème fraiche
2 packs of filled ravioli
Grated cheese (optional)

Fry the tomatoes in the oil for 5 minutes. Add the pesto, chilli sauce and 2 tablespoons of crème fraiche and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. The ravioli usually says drop into boiling water for 3 minutes, feel free to do that. We just drop the ravioli into the frying pan for 3 minutes and have not had a problem, plus it saves using a second ring and saves on washing up!

We sometimes do a side salad if the weather is warm enough, but really a pasta dish is just an excuse for loads of garlic bread.

Inspector Gadget – Hub caps

Following on from a conversation with former editor Phil Aldridge, this is a mechanic’s cheat for any hub caps.

If you press your hub caps on and sometimes they fall off, the cause is loss of metal. The Splitscreen and Bay window steel wheels have hub caps that attach to the wheel by gripping 3 lugs on the wheel itself. Repeated attachment and removal of the hub caps over the years removes tiny amounts of metal from the steel wheel and can also make the hub caps slightly wider as well.

The new ones are known as “summer chrome” and do not last very long in our climate. The original ones tend to have rusted by now. Any time you clean one or fit one, there is a danger of them falling off.

A mechanic friend suggested this trick which has worked for him for decades. Remove the hub cap and thoroughly clean the wheel. It looks better already, doesn’t it? Now with a clean, dry wheel, apply some electrician’s tape over each of the 3 lugs being careful to cover the piece that grips the hub cap. Offer up the hub cap to ensure that the tape is not visible.

Once all 3 lugs are taped, place the hub cap over 2 of them and tap the hub cap onto the third one. It can be quite difficult to do this and be careful to tap the edge of the hub cap otherwise you are likely to dent the middle! There are plenty of dented ones visible on member vans! If you dent it, tap the dent out carefully from the inside.

With all of them on, admire your handywork – and be a lot more confident that the caps will be there when you arrive.

Ask The Mechanic – Gas bottles

Have you ever run out of gas at totally the wrong time? I know that my tea obsessed wife has suddenly shrieked in a field due to the gas bottle being empty half way through a rainy weekend and the kettle won’t boil.

We run a CampingGaz 907 bottle, the blue butane one that holds 2.7kg of liquid gas but the theory is sound for any bottle. We weighed that empty one on a suitable kitchen scale and found it to be 3.6kg. Then we took the bottle to the shop and exchanged it for a full one, which we weighed at 6.35kg full.

Now that we know the full and empty weights, we then wrote down the weights for each percentage which helps on how much gas is left. Because we know how many nights we have been away on each bottle, it gives us a good idea not only “how much gas” but more importantly “how many nights before we run out?”. We have now calculated around 43 nights away on a full bottle but the weights table comes with us just in case.

Member’s Motor – Mark Broad-Holcombe

The unreliability of our beloved vans is not the sole ownership of the air-cooled bays and splits. Helen and I waved summer 2023 travels goodbye due to our 2019, 18,500 miles only T6 Kombi developing an EGR fault.

Back in May we were literally just pulling onto the drive after a trip to Derbyshire and Suffolk to visit family when an engine fault light lit up on the dash. My usual mechanic was able to diagnose the fault as EGR problems but as the van was so low mileage reckoned I should try to get VW to fix it on goodwill.

Now the fun begins. Yes, VW will look into the fault and possibly fix as a goodwill gesture but there’s a three month wait for a garage slot! Bye Bye summer camping. The appointment eventually arrived and despite a few niggles, VW did indeed fix the fault on goodwill (the new manager was very helpful). An EGR flush was carried out.  I did have to pay for a forced regen which wasn’t so bad as you all know put the word Volkswagen in the mix and costs reach for the sky.

It seems this problem isn’t uncommon with the newer Euro 6 transporters due to the ever increasing tightening up of emissions basically blocking the EGR valve with carbon. Pottering around town, which I try not to do seems to be the arch enemy and I have been told by a few knowledgeable people to minimize carbon build up red line it and drive it like you stole it!!!

After having the T6 EGR flush and forced regen carried out in early September 2023, I thought that the engine might behave for a while. It did, but only for nine months and not a lot of miles. On the return journey to Bristol from South Gloucestershire in early June on the M5 joy of joys engine light came on. Managed to book into the local garage within a week. Diagnostic results came back; EGR insufficient flow. They fixed it there and then but I picked it up at the end of the day with a bank balance £1,100 pounds lighter! Most of that bill was for parts.

By all accounts the EGR flush is basically like sticking a plaster on the problem. I suppose I did get nine months out of it.

Eric the Viking – a restoration in many parts – August 2024

Eric the Viking – a restoration in many parts – August 2024

Spend since last report: £73. Total hours labour since last report: 16.1

The last issue was reserved for the Germany trip, so this is actually 4 months of very minor and rather eclectic updates.

I bought a diesel heater some years ago which in the short term was on the garage wall to take the edge off the winter cold. This was dismantled and built into the wasted space under the passenger seat. It took a little fiddling as the space is large enough for the heater but the entrance was too small. A section of bracing was removed and welded in a few inches away allowing the heater to pass into the hole. A hole was cut in the floor of that area for the exhaust pipe and air inlet and the 2mm thick steel plate provided with the heater was bolted into place. A 70mm hole was cut in the rear of the bulkhead to allow hot air into the cargo area as well. I have fashioned a very small fuel tank that also sits in the same area to run the heater at night. It is very discrete as well as functional.

The kitchen pod has been filled, sanded, epoxy primed and top coated on the inside and looks rather good. It cannot go in until the B post and C post are finished and top coated though, so it is sitting forlornly at the side of the garage. That left nothing needing white paint that was finished, so I sanded the dashboard, pedal and steering column sections before spraying them black and trial fitting them back in.

The wiring loom was removed some years ago and had been subjected to some “upgrades”. This included a lot of bullet connectors to join the front to the rear and plenty of extra wires serving unknown purposes. Every wire was removed from the fuse board, inspected, cleaned and the coil, ignition and main live cables from front to rear were replaced. The entire plastic shrouding from 1973 was hard, brittle and missing sections, so it was removed and discarded. The fuse board was filthy and slipped out of my hands, accidentally landing in the dishwasher whilst Lorna was out. Along with some of the plastic air vents. Once it was all clean and ready, the smaller cables like rear lights and indicators were rejoined, the whole loom rebuilt into the fuse board following the 1973 wiring diagram and the long snake hung from the fuse board.

Several rolls of fabric tape were used to give me a neat finish from the fuse board for about a metre. This was then passed through the hole in the floor in front of the passenger’s feet and onto the garage floor.

The brake lines were still not right, so to finish both brakes and wiring, Eric went onto his side again.

All brake joints were dismantled, checked and put back together or replaced. Malcolm’s advice was that making the end is all well and good but to finish it, you wind it down into the correct place.

With the van on his side, the rest of the wiring from front to rear was taped up and run as far as the engine bay. Then the reversing light switch on the gearbox received a pair of new cables in more fabric and that ran into the engine bay as well. Then finally, the brake light switch on the new master cylinder also received a new pair of cables in fabric up to the fuse board. All told, that looked rather nice.

The rear windows had also seen better days and needed some attention – very frilly metal was removed, new sections added, and welds tidied up. The external covers on each side sit on clips nearly a metre long which had also perished and have been removed. New ones are a continuous U-shaped steel section, the old ones were more like fingers which makes them very fiddly to make. JK came to the rescue (with club discount) supplying the simple rectangle of steel folded over. There were no mounting holes either, so I drilled holes ready to weld them to the body.

Brake bleeding again.  The plastic reservoir on top of the master cylinder was leaking, cylinder removed to the bench, issue traced to it not sitting correctly. Master cylinder refitted.

Brake bleeding again. The master cylinder was now leaking on the joint heading to the rear brakes. I’m not playing that game again – just that one end removed, and new flare added. Every time I remove a pipe leaking at one end, the other end leaks!

I would have done more, but since the last report, we have been to the AGM, Germany, the Cider farm, Cheddar, Herefordshire again, RAF Odiham and that is just club events. I’m going back to work for a rest!!

Ask the Mechanic – My sliding door doesn’t work properly

Between Saturday 2nd August and Sunday 10th August 2025, 6 club member vehicles or Bay windows parked nearby, were reported to have sliding door issues. Each one was the same root cause, each fixed in under 10 minutes for free. You can do it too!

Sliding door won’t close and nothing has changed?
Sliding door won’t open and nothing has changed?
Sliding door won’t run smoothly and nothing has changed?

The root cause is the same – something HAS changed! Time has passed.

The sliding door has a top roller that runs in a channel. Grab your grease pot (avoid copper based as it is potentially carcinogenic), and put a decent sized blob of grease on that roller itself above the cream plastic cover. It runs in that top channel and only touches the left and right / inside and outside edges of the channel. Add a smear of grease to both sides – don’t bother greasing the top, the roller doesn’t touch it.

At the bottom of the door opening is another roller and another channel. You’ll need to repeat the process with the grease here – don’t just spray product into the hole, you need to grease the C shaped channel inside that hole and again you are doing the sides not the top. A blob on the roller as well will really help.

Now put the sliding door almost closed as in the above shot. The middle runner slides on top of a single 2mm thick piece of steel. Grease on the top of that but don’t worry about getting it perfectly on, just grease it up. The rearmost inch or so doesn’t get used, no need to grease to the end. When you are down there, that red U shaped steel goes up into the latch mechanism. From underneath, get a load of WD40 into there.

Now with the door almost fully open but not quite, locate the middle latch as shown above. That little finger holds the door open. Spray that liberally with WD40 from this side having just doused it from underneath.

That’s it for the hard work, now slide the door mostly closed to mostly open. Repeat 20 or 30 times to get that grease really spread through the dry sections and your sliding door should be a whole lot better.

You do do this as part of your regular maintenance though right?

Member’s Motor – Penny Lane by Philippa Symington

Our story is probably not at all typical of your members – all amazingly enthusiastic about their old campers!

My husband and I rather fell into the purchase of our first campervan, Penny Lane, a 1975 T2. Jamie is a 4th generation farmer running a big business on the Norfolk/Lincolnshire border. We’ve been thinking over the years of how to diversify and how to make the most of old buildings no longer suitable for modern agriculture. Not quite on the tourist trail, and not convenient enough for a business park.

Then a friend mentioned that they knew of a local couple wanting to downsize their campervan rental fleet, knowing that our son is a classic car enthusiast (his first car at 17 and all through university was a 1969 Imp – and it’s still running). We were intrigued, and met the then owners of Retro Campers Norfolk, which has been running since 2011. Their main issue was storage – they had to pay silly money for inadequate, often damp and not very convenient winter storage of their 5 classic campers and decided they needed to sell at least two of them to continue with holiday rentals of the others, and we agreed to buy Penny Lane. They then started to think they’d sell the whole business, and we thought why not? A new adventure, we have lots of space, and our enthusiastic son could help with maintaining the vehicles. We could do this!

By autumn 2023, we had ourselves a new venture on the farm, and we became the proud owners of Penny Lane, Buttercup and Mr Blue Sky – all RHD 1975 T2s in excellent order, plus Good Thing, a funky 1989 T25 – perfect for the holiday rental market. We spent much of the winter (and considerable expense!) converting a redundant building into their new home. Plenty of space for customers to get the hang of the gears and non-power steering in our farmyard and along quiet country lanes before they reach the main roads around King’s Lynn, ready for their camping adventures. Whilst we don’t have a mileage limit, we do ask customers to stay within a 60-mile (as the crow flies) radius of King’s Lynn, so most explore the Norfolk coast and Broads, but our area also includes Suffolk, the Fens, Rutland and Lincolnshire.

As you can imagine each camper has its own little quirks, and each new customer has to be carefully taken through how to drive and live in a classic camper. But our first major set-back was Buttercup needing a new engine! Despite having a pre- and mid-season service each year, you never quite know what’s round the corner with old vehicles. We are lucky to have Jason at Dubs and Classics nearby, and he put a new VW Engine Company engine in, plus various other tweaks. Despite being reasonably mechanically-minded on the farm, we are very much novices when it comes to old VWs, and feel reassured to have Jason and other local experienced guys to call on. The vans have to be in tip-top condition to hire out.

And running the new business has been quite a learning curve too! I’ve had to learn how to run a website, booking system and social media, but they say learning something new keeps our brains younger…

Personally we’re looking forward to a long weekend away with friends very soon – we’ll take two campers to the Norfolk Broads, so look out for us on the roads!

If any members of the T2 Owners Club would like to hire a camper for a few days (maybe yours is off the road, or you have friends who’d like to join you?), please get in touch – we can offer a 15% discount off any booking by members. Please see www.retrocampersnorfolk.co.uk or email info@retrocampersnorfolk.co.uk.  

Inspect A Gadget – Outwell Sandcrest L tailgate awning by club member Mark Broad-Holcombe

We have always used a freestanding awning with the campers, especially when the offspring were going away with us. Now it’s just two, we find we don’t need so much space, and putting an awning up for short stays is a chore. At the moment our van is a kombi conversion with a rear slide out kitchen, so rather than extra people creating a lack of space, it’s now the large bulk of a triple middle row seat that forms part of the bed and can’t be removed for camping.

This got me looking at tailgate awnings but most had one flaw. The tailgate had to be left up to support the awning therefore major lack of security. This is where the Sandcrest L is different. It has a single aluminium sectioned hoop to support the nylon, and so the tailgate can be lowered. Although not advertised as driveaway, I have done so using the guylines for support like any tent, although I wouldn’t risk it if it was too windy. It only takes about ten minutes to erect, is light(5.7kg) and takes up very little space (packed size is 64 x 22 x 22cm). As with all Outwell tents/awnings it has many useful features including a zipped mosquito mesh for when camping in warmer climates. Overall size is 310 x 220 cm and living space is about 180 x 200 cm. Enough room for a couple of chairs, table and my offside slide out. The Sandcrest L fits most Transporter sized vans and there is a smaller Sandcrest S for caddy sized vans.

The awning is available at around £330.